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How to make your own Swedish pea soup

Swedish pea soup is great comfort food for cold days, and the perfect budget option when you're short of cash after the holidays. Food writer John Duxbury shares his favourite recipe with The Local.

How to make your own Swedish pea soup
The traditional Swedish pea soup. Photo: Irina/Flickr

Summary

Makes: 6 portions

Time needed: 70 minutes (plus time for the peas to soak overnight)

Ingredients

500g (1¼ lb) dried yellow split peas

1 tbsp olive oil

2 sticks of celery (trimmed and finely diced)

2 onions (peeled and finely chopped)

½ tsp dried thyme

½ tsp dried oregano

250g (9oz) of good quality cooked smoked ham*

2 litres (8 cups) ham or chicken stock made with 3 bouilon cubes, salt, and freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp chopped fresh thyme and/or marjoram

(*Alternatively 500g of salted pork belly or bacon, in which case brown in the pan before using, then put to one side and follow the recipe as indicated below).

Method

1. Rinse the split peas in cold water and leave to soak overnight. Drain them and put them to one side.

2. Put a large saucepan on a low heat and add the oil. Once hot, add the celery, onions, and dried herbs. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally until soft but not coloured.

3. Add the peas, ham, and stock and heat until simmering. Skim off any foam and simmer with the lid on for 50 minutes.

4. Use tongs to pull out the ham and move it to a board. Chop and shred it up, discarding any rind and fatty pieces. Roughly mash the peas with a potato masher, then stir in the shredded ham and the fresh thyme and/or marjoram.

5. Season the soup with salt before serving if desired.

Tips

– Swedes tend to dip their spoons into mustard before taking a mouthful of the soup. Swedish mustard is slightly sweeter and less hot than English or French mustards and complements the soup really well. A piece of knäckebröd with cheese is commonly served together with the soup as well.

– Keeping with tradition, the pea soup is also served with hot Swedish punsch (a strong liqueur with arrack) followed by pancakes with strawberry jam and cream. The soup can be quite thick, so if you’d prefer it to be more soup-like, increase the amount of stock used. Any leftovers can be reheated and enjoyed the next day without a problem. 

– Pea soup and punsch is a traditional Thursday meal at Swedish universities.

Recipe courtesy of John Duxbury, Editor and Founder of Swedish Food

Enjoyed this article? Read about seven other delicious food dates in the Swedish calendar

 

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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