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Foodies find good choice in Vienna’s markets

Tired of processed and pre-packaged food? There's no excuse for not eating well, if you're willing to try out some of Vienna's specialized food markets. The Local's food correspondent Gaz Smith checks out the choices available, and gives his recommendations. Let them know you read about it in The Local if you visit.

Foodies find good choice in Vienna's markets
Photo: Eishken Estate

We´ve all been there, standing frowning at the checkout of the supermarket with an uninspired basket of junk or processed 'food' wondering why we didn't just order out for a pizza.

Here are some places that are worth a little detour that will help you to cook properly at home, and rekindle the love of tasting something home-made off a wooden spoon…hopefully without burning your tongue.

Meat

The bad news is that most Austrian grocery stores and supermarkets have a sigh-inducing fresh meat range. The good news is that Vienna is liberally littered with great butchers.

Find yourself a local one who's good and stick with them. Chat with your local butcher, a bit of rapport will only lead to great meat.

Our tip is to get your pork, poultry and innards from an Austrian butcher, but hit up your local Turkish butcher for anything beef or lamb related.  Most Turkish places will mince meat freshly and cheaply in front of you if you ask.

Making a bolognese?  Pick a nice lean piece of meat to be minced.

Making burgers? Make sure there's a nice bit of fat going in; a ratio of twenty percent fat to meat is where the entrance to burger heaven begins.

Places we love include Szabo's and Stanzl's the butchers.

Fleischerei Szabo
Anzengrubergasse 11
1050 Wien

They're also at:
Schönbrunnerstrasse 129
1050 Wien

Open Mon-Thurs 6 am – 1 pm and 3–6 pm,
Fri 6 am – 6 pm, Sat 6 am – 1 pm

http://www.fleischerei-szabo.at
Tel: 01/54 53 908

Friedrich Stanzl
Erbergstraße 83
1030 Wien

Mon-Thurs 7 am – 1:30 pm and 3:30–6:30 pm,
Fri 7 am – 6.30 pm, Sat 7 am – 12 pm

http://www.stanzl-spezialitaeten.at/
Tel.: 01/713 31 30

Fish

You´d think that being landlocked makes fish a terrible option in Austria, and mostly, you're correct. However, a bit of effort and you could close your eyes and believe that you've transported yourself to a far flung coastal town somewhere.

Don´t even consider touching those bloated packs of week old trout you see hidden at the end of the meat counter in supermarkets, they'll turn you off cooking fish for life.

Avoid fish with dull eyes, that is floppy and sad looking. If it smells of fish, forget about it, it's old.  Bright eyes, slimy scales, bloody gills and firm tails are what you´re after.

If it´s only the filleted fish for sale, look for near-transparent or opaque fillets, that haven´t been sitting on ice absorbing water all day, otherwise they will stick to your pan and end up soggy when cooked.

Be brave when demanding the freshest fish, they´ll respect you for it.

If you want spanking fresh fish then Eishken Estate is your best bet, a bit of a trek out to them, but well worth the drive.

Eishken Estate
Großgrünmarkt Inzersdorf
Laxenburgerstraße 365, Halle A2, Stand 1-3 
1230 Vienna

Mon- Fri 6 am – 1 pm, Sat 7 am – 12 pm

www.eishken.at/index.php
Tel.: 01/889 37 33

Closer to home, and also very very good we have

Umar Fisch
Naschmarkt 76-79
1040 Vienna

Mon–Fri 8 am–6 pm
Sat 8 am – 5 pm

www.umarfisch.at/fischshop.shtml

The fish shop at Lubin imports the fish directly from their own boats in Croatia.

Lubin Fisch
Hainburgerstraße 50
1030 Vienna

Tues-Sat 9 am – 5 pm
Tel: 01/955 67 08

www.fischlubin.at

Frische Paradies is also a very safe option.

Sagedergasse 18–22
1120 Vienna

Mon–Wed 8 am – 6 pm / Thu–Fri 8 am – 7 pm /
Sat 8 am – 4 pm.

http://www.frischeparadies.de

Vegetables

There are dozens of good markets littered around the capital.  Saturday mornings at Naschmarkt in the summer months can be joyous when the sun has brought the best out in fruit and vegetables.

Other great options are rooting out the best stalls at Brunnenmarkt and Karmelitermarkt.

There´s no definite consistency in shopping for fruit'n'veg – play it by ear, ask what's good, wander around, let what´s good dictate what you´ll make for dinner that night.

Our experience of the supermarket chains are that Hofer and Lidl offer the freshest and cheapest fruit and veg, but usually a narrower range than can be found at the markets.

Naschmarkt. Photo: Paul Gillingwater

Naschmarkt

Mon – Fri 6 am – 6:30pm / Saturday 6 am – 5 pm

Saturday mornings is when the farmers and growers bring the local seasonal stuff, get in early, and be prepared for grannies to poke you with umbrellas to get the best fruits and beware the drunkards falling out of Goodman's from the night before.

Brunnenmarkt

The longest street market in Vienna, if you´re looking for trendy and hipster, get out now, but if you're looking for decent fruit and veg, then stick around.

Mon-Fri 6 am – 6:30 pm / Saturday 6 am – 2 pm

Karmelitermarkt

We always go here to buy fruit and spend the day eating at the little places littered around here.

Mon – Fri 6 am – 6.30 pm / 6 am – 5 pm

Bread

You can´t beat tackling the thick heavy crust of real bread, compared to that air-filled tasteless belly-filler that most places have. The bread – and everything else – at Joseph Brot is well worth the journey. For an extra euro a loaf, you can get a real, organic loaf of bread.

Felz at Westbahnoff is great too, and of the chain bakeries, Der Mann is our favourite. Of course you can make your own bread, and we´ll follow up soon with easy and simple bread recipes.

Joseph Brot
Naglergasse 9
1010 Wien

Mon – Fri 7 am – 7 pm /Sat 8 am – 6pm

They also have a second location in the third district:

Joseph Brot
Landstraßer Hauptstraße 4
1030 Vienna

Mon – Sat 6.30 am- 9 pm / Sun 7.30 am – 9 pm.

www.joseph.co.at/

Felz
Schottenfeldgasse 88A
1070 Vienna

Mon – Fri 6 am – 6.30 pm /Sat 6 am – 5 pm /
Sun 6 am – 12:30 pm

www.felzl.at
Tel 01/5230141

General ingredients

Special mention, for something a bit different, and to really inspire, pop into Prosi's.  The range of lovely ingredients is enough to have you whipping out the pots and pans, and they are all round decent people. The little canteen down the back is always full of happy customers. Make sure to grab one of the home-made samosas beside the checkout.

Prosi Exotic Supermarket
Wimbergergasse 5
1070 Vienna

Mon – Sat 9 am – 8 pm

http://prosisupermarket.com

It's scary and depressing to see how food habits are changing, it used to be cost effective to buy and cook home-made food, but these days, and unnervingly so, convenience food is cheaper to buy.

But look where buying €1.39 packets of lasagne got us. Old horse and donkey meat anybody?

An extra euro here and an extra bit of shopping there, and you´ll quickly get into the habit of eating home-made food.  Now go forth and cook.

– Gaz

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FOOD AND DRINK

Seven ‘weird’ foods in Austria you need to try at least once

Austria is much more than schnitzel and sausages and you can find some very strange dishes here, from fried brains to pancake soups.

Seven 'weird' foods in Austria you need to try at least once

Austrian cuisine holds many interesting typical dishes worth experiencing. Here, we list seven of those that may seem strange to foreigners.

Schmalz

Austria is not the only country to serve rendered animal fat as a snack at events, but the small appetizer is quite popular here.

Schmalz is a paste made from rendered pig, chicken, or other animal fat and is used in multiple ways in the Austrian kitchen. When cooking, you can easily create schmalz from the fat leftovers from frying, a smart way to avoid wasting resources.

Although schmalz is mainly used as a cooking fat, it is also a common spread for bread and crackers. In fact, it is a popular treat during events, such as wine cellar openings, where it is believed to help visitors absorb alcohol more slowly.

 
 
 
 
 
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Egg with brain

Egg with brain, or in German “Hirn mit Ei,” is a traditional Austrian (Viennese) dish that consists of a breaded or fried calf’s brain served with a poached or fried egg on top.

The brain is usually seasoned with different spices and cooked until tender, and the dish is famous for its creamy texture.

Hirn mit Ei used to be a very common dish among Austrians in the past when it was essential not to waste any food and eat what was possible from tail to nose. Today, the dish is less common in Austria but is still eaten and seen as an important and traditional part of Austrian cuisine.

 
 
 
 
 
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Germknödel

Germknödel is a dessert that will make your head turn the first time you catch sight of it. It looks like a massive ball of dough, and that is more and less exactly what it is.

The dessert is a fluffy dumpling made mainly from yeast, flour, and sugar. Inside the fluffiness, you normally find a bit of plum jam, and the outside of the dumpling is often covered with poppy seeds and melted butter.

Although it is a dessert, many people eat it as the main and only course, which seems rather logical given its size and weight.

Germknödel is a common dish in the mountains. It is associated with social gatherings in winter, celebrations, and après-ski activities, where it is enjoyed as a comforting and very filling treat.

 
 
 
 
 
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Leberkäse

Leberkäse is something that evokes childhood memories for many Austrians, perhaps because it was and still is a convenient and readily available cheap snack found almost everywhere.

Leberkäse is one of Austria’s most common food dishes. Despite its name containing the word “liver” (Leber), it normally does not contain liver, which is a common misunderstanding, especially among foreigners.

To make Leberkäse, finely ground meat (usually pork or beef) is mixed with bacon, onions, salt, pepper, and other spices. The mixture is then packed into loaf pans and baked until cooked through. Once baked, Leberkäse is served sliced and is a great option if you are hungry at festivals, markets, or simply while on the go in a city.

 
 
 
 
 
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Pancake soup

In Austria, it is almost more common to slice up a pancake and put it in a soup than it is to actually eat a pancake on its own. Pancake soup, or in German, Frittatensuppe, is a very popular dish in Austrian cuisine.

The soup consists of a clear beef broth served with thinly sliced pancake strips, known as “Frittaten,” which float around in it.

Frittatensuppe is often served as a comforting meal and is very popular during the winter months. It is commonly eaten as a starter before a main course, but it is also enjoyed on its own as a lighter snack, often together with a slice of bread.

 
 
 
 
 
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READ MORE: Is it OK to ask for a doggy bag in an Austrian restaurant?

Salzburg Nockerl

This is one of Austria’s most popular desserts, which often looks like a piece of art. It is also not something you eat every day, as it takes time to make and always needs to be prepared fresh.

Salzburger Nockerl is named after the three most notorious mountain peaks in the Salzburg skyline, and the dessert is shaped like them.

The mountain-shaped dessert is seen as a good source of protein – at least for a dessert. Its main ingredients are eggs, sugar, flour, and vanilla. It is made by whipping egg whites to stiff peaks and then combining them with sugar, flour, and vanilla. This mixture is then spooned into peaks and baked until puffed and golden.

 
 
 
 
 
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Buttermilch

Many Austrians love to drink Buttermilch, especially during warmer months. Buttermilch is the liquid that remains after butter has been churned from cream. 

The drink has a slightly sour and tangy flavour, and you can sometimes see people walking around with big glasses of it while visiting an Austrian sauna or spa establishment.

 
 
 
 
 
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READ NEXT: Is the Wiener Schnitzel really from Vienna?

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