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‘Naples really isn’t as dangerous as people say’

Cousins Rachel and Gabrielle moved half way across the world from New Zealand to Naples. Gabrielle tells The Local why Naples doesn't deserve its negative press, and why she loves the Neapolitan way of life.

'Naples really isn't as dangerous as people say'
Photo: Wikicommons

What made you decide to move to Naples?

We are both from Auckland, and in fact grew up next door to each other. Rachel came here first, and absolutely fell in love with the city, and when I visited her, I did too. I spent some time studying in Paris, but after my course finished, I was drawn back to Naples and here we are.

So many people ask us why we live here, because New Zealand is a paradise and we love it at home too. Maybe we are crazy!

Did you know anyone there before you moved?

Rachel didn't know anyone when she first arrived but over time has made a lovely community of friends – she is the talkative one, so I was lucky I could slip right in with her group of friends. Fitting into the community is easy enough because Neapolitans are in general so friendly and generous.

There are so many places and events to meet people here you end up bumping into the same faces, which really makes us feel like we are at home.

Do you feel like foreigners have misconceptions about Italy, and Naples in particular?

There are many misconceptions about Naples. Often tourists pass straight through Naples to the Amalfi Coast because they have heard that it is dangerous and dirty, which is such a shame. I admit, Naples seems to be quite a particular city but if you give it a chance, it is incredible. In terms of danger for a tourist, I would say it is similar to any other large European city – you have to watch your bags and cameras, but that's normal. It really isn't as bad as people say.

Naples has so much to offer and is in the perfect position to visit the attractions here in the city as well as easily making day trips to the islands (Capri, Procida, Ischia), the Amalfi Coast, Pompei, and Vesuvius.

Working in a hostel (www.6smallrooms.com), what are people's usual reactions to the city?

As I said, Naples is a particular kind of city. Since starting work at the hostel  I have observed that people either fall in love with it straight away, or they hate the place. However, I have also observed that when people do not like Naples straight away, if they are here for more than two to three days, their viewpoint usually always changes and they start to enjoy it – a pleasant surprise for them.

In what ways is living in Italy different from visiting as a tourist?

Living in Italy is so rewarding. In Naples the balance between work and play is really important. People are so happy to enjoy life and it's a contagious feeling. Visiting as a tourist is fast and busy because there is so much to see and do, often in a small amount of time.

Living here you get to see and do everything that tourists do in your own time and also observe day-to-day life here (this is my absolute favourite thing to do.) To walk the streets of Naples and get to know the faces who pass by the same street each day, smell the musty Naples smell mixed with the delicious smell of pasta cooking and a sea breeze whipping up the streets. The differences between being a tourist and living here weren't apparent at first and even now I have to think about when I first arrived to realize how much I have settled in here.

What makes Naples unique from the rest of Italy?

This is a difficult question – there is so much history here. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and Neapolitans are generally very proud of their city so with that combination I think the culture of the city is unique and is preserved and passed on through generations.

Would you say there are any particular qualities people should have in order to 'survive' in Naples?

This is hard to answer too – we certainly don't look like Italians so we stand out like sore thumbs – people know we are foreigners straight away.

One quality that is important is patience. It seems to take a long time to do anything here. If you have no patience don't even bother going to the post office. Being able to laugh things off is important too – this is mostly due to the fact that my Italian skills are very basic (but hopefully improving) and I am often misunderstood or say bad words thinking they mean something else!

Are there any aspects of the lifestyle that you don't enjoy, or haven't yet got used to?

Everyone here seems to look good all the time. I often feel a little scruffy; maybe it's in the Italian DNA but they always seem to be very well groomed. This observance has led to me taking a lot longer to get organized to leave the house and in turn often running late – but I guess that fits the Italian stereotype!

I am still not quite used to the fact that most shops close for the lunch hour and am constantly getting caught out on a Sunday when everything is closed for most of the day.

What are your favourite spots in Naples?

There are so many spots, and it depends on the time of day. The view over Naples from the top of the hill outside Castel Sant'Elmo towards Vesuvius is incredible. Walking along the waterfront is beautiful on a sunny day and spectacular on a stormy grey day too. People watching in Piazza Bellini or from one of the bars is enjoyable.

Being tucked away in the cosy warmth of the hostel is great too. Just walking the streets of Naples you see so many surpising and beautiful hidden viewpoints. It's impossible to name one thing as the best thing about Naples.

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NAPLES

Champions League: Eight arrested after fans clash with police in Naples

Smoke bombs, flares, chairs, bottles and metal poles were thrown at police in Naples' historic centre on Wednesday, as Eintracht Frankfurt fans descended on the city despite a ban.

Champions League: Eight arrested after fans clash with police in Naples

Three German football fans and five Italians were arrested following violence in Naples before and after Napoli’s Champions League win over Eintracht Frankfurt, a local official said on Thursday.

Six police officers were injured in violence on Wednesday evening, according to Alessandro Giuliano, who is responsible for public safety in Naples.

Police were in the process of identifying 470 German fans who arrived in the city, and were scouring images to establish those responsible for the disorder, he told a press conference.

Dozens of supporters of Atalanta also joined forces with supporters of the German side, with whom they are twinned.

The first clashes occurred on Wednesday afternoon in Naples’ historic centre, and continued after the match, an easy 3-0 win for Napoli which took them through to the Champions League quarter-finals for the first time.

Smoke bombs and flares, chairs, bottles and metal poles were thrown at police, who responded with tear gas. Later, Napoli fans were filmed by Italian media throwing objects at buses carrying Eintracht fans.

Naples mayor Gaetano Manfredi condemned the “unacceptable” violence, while opposition politicians have questioned the government’s handling of the situation, notably by Interior Minister Matteo Piantedosi.

Napoli player Juan Jesus said the disorder was “bad for the city, and bad for football”.

“Because people come, then destroy, then leave, it’s not a good thing. It’s not possible to still see this in 2023, we are sorry to see these scenes,” he said.

The German supporters had travelled to southern Italy, with many arriving in Naples by train, even though Eintracht decided against selling tickets for the away section in Naples for the second leg of the last 16 tie.

Eintracht Frankfurt fans clash with anti-riot police after arriving in Naples despite not having tickets for their team’s Champions League decider with Napoli. (Photo by Ciro FUSCO / ANSA / AFP)

The Frankfurt club decided not to take up their allocation after the Naples prefecture decided on Sunday to ban residents of the German city from buying tickets.

A earlier Italian ban on Eintracht fans who lived anywhere in Germany was overturned.

Sunday’s decision came after violence in the first leg that was won 2-0 by Napoli in Frankfurt, which led to nine people being taken into custody.

Eintracht fans have been under close surveillance by European governing body UEFA since the pitch invasion which greeted the club reaching the final of the Europa League, which they won by beating Scottish club Rangers.

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