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MY ITALY - PUGLIA

EXPAT

‘Italians welcome you with open arms’

Amy Lucinda Jones moved from Worcestershire, in the UK, to Puglia to teach English. Having studied German at university, she didn't speak the language but says the local community, and their food and festivals, made her feel at home.

'Italians welcome you with open arms'
Amy Lucinda Jones teaches English in Puglia.

Having studied German at university and lived there for a year, how does Italy compare in terms of expat life?

Italy is definitely more relaxed and laid back, but I did like the punctuality and efficiency that you can find in Germany. Trains that ran on time were fantastic! In terms of communicating, living in Germany could be said to be a little easier, especially at the beginning, as in general Germans speak very good English. But both Germans and Italians seem to appreciate it if you have a go and speak to them in the local lingo.

I personally prefer Italian food, but German bread is exceptional. With both Italian and German locals, I found it a little difficult at first, as neither nationality opens up to you immediately. But once you get to know the people, they are very accommodating. In southern Italy there is also a very strong sense of family; less so in Germany.

What do you miss most about life in the UK?

Well, I can safely say that I don’t miss the weather… I have to say that, apart from my family and friends, there are few things that I really miss. Although when I’m occasionally back in the UK, I do a big shop at all the great high street shops because where I live in Italy, there aren’t that many. Secretly I also miss food such as pork pie and crumpets too!

Are you learning much about the Italian cuisine of the region? 

I am definitely learning through eating, yes! Down here in Puglia the food is fresh and simple, and it’s absolutely delicious. Specialities include orecchiette (ear shaped) pasta, ridiculously good olive oil, tasty tomatoes, potato pizza and torcinello, which is a special sausage made from all sorts of lamb innards!

Have you experienced any local traditions or festivals specific to southern Italy?

Each town here has their own patron saint festival, and in this part of the country, people celebrate by eating, listening to live music, holding processions and perhaps most importantly, setting off fireworks.

I don’t live far from San Severo, which has its festival during May. The fireworks here are nothing short of incredible…but also incredibly dangerous! Aside from the danger of being hit by a passing banger, these festivals are great because the whole town comes together and there is a real sense of community. 

What is southern Italy like in the winter?

Quite cold actually. It’s a few degrees warmer than the UK during the winter, and doesn’t get too much rain, but it’s still rather chilly. People don’t tend to go out so much, preferring to stay at home in the evening, or head out to a nice cosy restaurant. As soon as the Spring hits however, everyone comes to life again!

And what is it like coping with the hot summers?

I’m actually starting to get used to the hotter weather during the summer. If it’s between about 28 and 35 degrees C, I’m fine. When the temperature starts creeping up towards 40 however, I seek out the nearest place with air conditioning. Some nights it’s almost impossible to sleep; I think that’s the worst thing about the really hot periods.

The evenings can be wonderful though, as everyone sits outside at bars and restaurants or takes an evening stroll through the park or town centre. 

Southern Italy is traditionally seen as more family and community orientated than the north, so what are your tips for settling in and winning over the locals?

Just get involved. There is definitely a huge sense of community here, and while people may be wary of you at first, seeing as you are an ‘outsider’, if you demonstrate that you are willing to become part of the community they will welcome you with open arms.

People here only speak a little English, so it’s wise to get to know some of the language before you arrive. If you can communicate, you can get to know people, and experience real southern Italian hospitality. 

Do you think foreigners have misconceptions about life in Italy? Did any aspects surprise you when you arrived?

People say that the food is great…and this is definitely true. They also claim that Italians aren’t punctual and don’t know how to queue…also true! But for anyone who thinks that the only language that people speak is Italian, unfortunately this isn’t the case. Every town, even ones that are only 10km apart, has its own dialect. It’s often similar to Italian, but not always. I didn’t have a clue about this when I arrived, so I did get a little confused! 

Do you plan to stay in Italy long-term, or move on somewhere else? 

Currently, I think I can see myself living here for a while yet. I love the lifestyle, the weather and the food, and my Italian is gradually getting better. But I’ve always been a keen traveller and often experience a great deal of wanderlust, so who knows!

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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