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Italy says ‘traffic light’ system ‘unfair’ on its diet

Italians are up in arms after their famed food products such as olive oil and cheeses were given a negative "red" in the UK's "traffic light" food labelling system. Debate over the obesity-fighting campaign has now reached the EU's doors in Brussels.

Italy says 'traffic light' system 'unfair' on its diet
The UK's 'traffic light' labelling system targets foods that are high in fat, sugar and salt. Photo: Health Gauge/Flickr

The British government in June announced plans to roll out the coloured food labelling system, which targets food high in fat, sugar and salt, in a bid to cut obesity rates.

On Tuesday, Italy raised the issue at the EU's Council of Ministers over concerns that giving a red label to high-fat Italian food such as olive oil could have a negative impact on the country's trade to the UK, Il Sole 24 Ore reported. Italy was supported by the French, Greek and Spanish delegations in Brussels, the newspaper said.

Under the labelling system, olive oil – praised for helping fend off Alzheimer's disease and cancer –  received a red label as a fatty food.

SEE ALSO: Olive oil may avert memory loss – study

The system was met with a backlash in the Italian press: “Food traffic lights – London against Rome” read a headline in Italy’s La Stampa newspaper on Wednesday, while Corriere della Sera said “Italy is in battle against London”.

Italian Health Minister Beatrice Lorenzin last week held talks over the matter in London with Jane Ellison, the UK’s under secretary of state for public health, Corriere reported.

“Scaring consumers is wrong," Lorenzin said, adding that the Mediterranean diet should instead be promoted.

"[It's about] eating more fish, white meat, olive oil, fresh fruit and vegetables – and less bread and pasta." 

The Mediterranean diet has been added to UNESCO’s List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, although UN backing cannot hide the high-fat nature of some celebrated Italian foods.

The UK’s National Health Service (NHS) says that “any red(s) on the label means the food is high in fat, saturated fat, salt or sugars and these are the foods we should cut down on”.

But La Stampa argues the scheme risks people missing out on the health benefits of products such as olive oil, and could also damage the image and distribution of traditional Italian products. 

SEE ALSO: Italians discover cancer-fighting olive oil

Tonio Borg, European Commissioner for Health, told the newspaper he was monitoring the system's development. “European legislation allows each state to introduce similar measures on a voluntary basis. At the moment, based on the information we have, we don’t have reason to think anything else is happening,” he said.

However, he said "we would not hesitate to intervene” should any irregularities in the UK’s food labelling be found.

Responding to the criticism, a spokesperson for the UK's Department of Health said "there is no evidence of any barriers to trade" with Italy or other countries.

"Our scheme is not about stopping people from eating certain foods, but providing a quick and easy way to help shoppers to make informed choices and understand how these foods fit into their overall diet," the spokesperson told The Local.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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