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Spanish climber sets new Matterhorn record

A Catalan climber set a new record on Wednesday for the fastest ascent and descent of the Matterhorn, with a back-to-back time of just two hours 52 minutes.

Published: 22 August 2013 09:38 CEST

Spanish climber sets new Matterhorn record

The mountain claimed the lives of 500 alpinists between 1865 and 1995. Photo: Flickr/Dimitrije Ostojic

Swiss newspaper Le Matin reported that Kilian Jornet Burgada had shaved 22 minutes off the previous record set in 1995 by Italian Bruno Brunod.

Jornet left the village church in Cervinia, which lies at an altitude of 2,050 metres (6,726 feet), at 3:00 pm (1300 GMT) Wednesday.

He took two hours to scale the 4,478-metre (14,692-foot) Matterhorn peak, and less than an hour to return to his point of departure, arriving at 5:52 pm (1552 GMT).

The 26-year-old Catalan is a multiple world and European champion in the tough disciplines of ski mountaineering and mountain running.

The Matterhorn is one of the deadliest peaks in Europe.

Four men members of the first party to climb it fell to their deaths and a total of 500 climbers died on the mountain between 1865 and 1995.

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Search for missing Italian and British climbers suspended

Daniele Nardi (L) and Tom Ballard (R), the climbing partners who haven't been heard from since Sunday. Photo: Daniele Nardi/Facebook

Climbers Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard were last heard from on Sunday as they climbed the Nanga Parbat, which at 8,125 metres is the world's ninth-highest peak.

They were attempting a route that has never before been successfully completed.

Heavy snowfall on Friday kept a helicopter from taking off and a ground team confined to base camp in the western Himalayas.

“Snowfall has reduced the visibility and we expect snowfall for the coming three to four days, which makes it difficult for us to climb up and do a ground search,” Pakistani mountaineer Muhammad Ali Sadpara told AFP by telephone from Nanga Parbat base camp.

He said the the mountaineers had taken the notorious Mummery route, named after a mountaineer who died while attempting it in 1895. The route has never been attempted since then, he said.

“The risk of avalanche makes it [rescue] almost impossible in this weather,” he added.

Sadpara, along with other four local mountaineers, were airlifted to the base camp for a ground search. A top army aviation official said a Pakistani military helicopter that was set to search from the air was unable to take off due to the snow.

“The weather prediction for the coming few days is not good, and unfortunately it will make it very difficult for us to fly,” he told AFP.

Four Russian mountaineers currently at the base camp for K2, the world's second highest mountain and also in northern Pakistan, had volunteered to join the search. But a spokesperson for the Russians said the Nanga Parbat climbers' support team had opted instead to carry out the search using drones.

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Nardi's team said on Facebook that the climbers' tent had been “spotted from a helicopter, buried under snow. Traces of avalanches can be seen”. But Karim Shah, a Pakistani mountaineer and friend of Nardi who is in contact with the team at the base camp and the search team, said that tent was spotted on a different route than the one taken by the missing climbers.

Ballard is the son of British mountaineer Alison Hargreaves, the first woman to conquer Mount Everest solo and without bottled oxygen. She died descending K2 in 1995.

The search was delayed because rescue teams were forced to wait for permission to send up a helicopter after Pakistan closed its airspace on Wednesday in response to escalating tensions with India.

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