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ITALIAN OF THE WEEK

MILAN

From aspiring priest to Hell’s Kitchen host

Carlo Cracco's life as a TV host and head chef in Milan is a far cry from his early thought of entering the church. The Local takes a look at the chef's years of culinary creations and his award-winning approach to Italian ingredients.

From aspiring priest to Hell’s Kitchen host
Carlo Cracco's father stopped him enrolling in a religious school. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP

Who is Carlo Cracco?

Carlo Cracco is a MasterChef Italia judge who leaves a shower of Michelin stars in his wake.

Born in Vicenza, in the Veneto region, he currently runs the kitchen at Milan’s Cracco Restaurant.

Why is he in the news?

Cracco recently announced he will be launching the Italian version of British chef Gordon Ramsay's TV show Hell’s Kitchen, which sees contestants fight for a head chef job at a leading restaurant. In his show, Ramsay is famous for dishing out a generous portion of expletives to the participants.

How does Cracco stand out from other Italian chefs?

In a country known internationally for its rich food culture, it may be hard for Italian chefs to make their name known. Not so for Cracco.

He launched his career in 1986 at the first restaurant in Italy to be awarded three Michelin stars – Gualtiero Marchesi. His culinary creations have since been served up at some of the country’s best restaurants, including Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, which boasts three Michelin stars.

Does he make a good lasagne?

Cracco could arguably make the best lasagne in Italy, but instead he focuses on dishes which combine “Milanese tradition with a modern touch”.

A visit to his Milan restaurant, which opened six years ago, demands a rethink of Italian cuisine: think creme brulè with olive oil, black cod with coffee, chocolate cream with black olives – food of the Gods and the super rich.

What does Cracco do away from the kitchen?

Pose with naked models. Or one, at least.

The chef caused a storm in December 2012 when he featured on the cover of GQ with a naked Jessica Dykstra wrapped around him. He was wearing nothing but her boots.

The model stood up for Cracco and the magazine, saying she didn’t see a problem with the photograph.

“I’m naked, so what?" she said. “A lot of women have overstated the potential vulgarity of these photos, just because they probably don't have a sense of humour,” she said.

But was the photo a reflection of a playboy lifestyle?

Cracco has his female fans, but he is also a family man.

He has two children from a previous marriage and has since started a new family with Rosa Fanti, 17 years his junior.

Fanti admits the pair had a make-or-break moment early on in the relationship.

“When he came to my house, the first thing he did was open the fridge. Inside, I only had a pack of pre-cooked wraps and mozzarella: I wanted to die,” she told Italian Vanity Fair.

Thankfully, Cracco said he would do the cooking from then on.

Was Cracco always set to live such a life?

Not at all. He told Vanity Fair he worked hard for everything he has.

“I’m one of four sons from a simple family in Vicenza. My father, a railway man, worked three extra jobs. My mother did the same,” he said.

Such a tough upbringing proved invaluable for Cracco, as it stopped him following his dreams of becoming a priest.

“I wanted to enroll in a religious school, but had to pay for board and lodging. My father said: ‘You’re a fool. It costs too much,’” he said.

Much to the relief of his dinner guests. 

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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