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MICHELIN

Insect eating proposal leaves bad aftertaste

A recent United Nations study suggested eating insects could help solve the world's hunger problems but not all of Spain's chefs are taking the bait.

Insect eating proposal leaves bad aftertaste
Bugging out: The United Nations wants more insects on the world's dinner plates. File photo: George Arriola

The report by the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) suggests eating insects — or entomophagy — could help fight hunger as the world's population swells to nine billion people by 2050.

In a section called ´Why eat insects?' the report's authors outline the many health, environmental and poverty-fighting benefits of eating our six-legged friends.

But not all of Spain's chefs are ready to include cockroaches on their tapas menu.

Three-star Michelin chef Juan Mari Arzak told Spanish news site Te Interesa that while he liked eating large grasshoppers (chapulines), he currently had no plans to include insects on his menu in San Sebastián. 

"They don´t form part of our culture," said Arzak, who also stressed it was important to respect the food preferences of other cultures.

Chef Nacho Manzano at the Michelin two-star restaurant of Casa Marcial in Asturias is also in no rush to put insects on the menu.

"I don´t mind eating insects, depending on which one they are. Still, it´s a question of education. If you've never tried a spider crab in your life, it would be really disgusting, but for us it's a delicacy because it's part of our culture."

Meanwhile, insects aren't on the menu at the Michelin one-starred Aponiente restaurant in El Puerto de Santa María either.

This is because they don't fit in with the philosophy of chef Ángel León.

León, who serves up plankton at his eatery, would prefer to focus on news species from the world's oceans.

However, Gorka Txpartegui at the Alameda restaurant in the Basque Country said they wouldn't rule out putting insects on the menu.

"Insects are good and I like ants. I love Asian cooking and we always have Asian cooks on our team. We are fundamentally Basque, but (insects) could be an option," Txpartegui told Te Interesa.

According to the FAO, two billion people worldwide already eat insects, particularly in Asia and Africa.

The organization says that insects are a viable alternative source of protein alongside chicken, pork, beef and fish.

The FAO also says insects are good for the environment, with their production involving far lower levels of greenhouse gas emissions than most livestock.

Insect rearing and harvesting is also a "low-tech, low-capital investment option" the authors of the FAO report argue. Even women and the landless can get involved, they stress in the detailed study. 

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ENVIRONMENT

‘No food, no future’: German farmers protest against insect protection plans

The German government on Wednesday proposed legislation to halt a dramatic decline in insect populations, but drew immediate fire from farmers who said the new measures threatened their livelihoods.

'No food, no future': German farmers protest against insect protection plans
Tractors protested on the streets of Berlin on Tuesday. Photo: DPA

The “insect protection” law, which aims to restrict the use of pesticides, is the result of two years of wrangling within Chancellor Angela Merkel's coalition government.

Hundreds of farmers drove their tractors into central Berlin on Tuesday, braving snow and frosty temperatures, to protest against the government's “insect protection” draft law.

“No farmers, no food, no future” read a sign fixed to one tractor near the city's famed Brandenburg Gate. “We are here, talk to us” read another.

The policy package's flagship measure is the phasing out of the
controversial weedkiller glyphosate by the end of 2023.

It also bans the use of herbicides and insecticides in national parks and includes rules for reducing light pollution at night.

“People can't live without insects,” said Environment Minister Svenja Schulze, calling the law “good news for insects and the future of our ecosystems”.

The legislation also limits the use of pesticides near major bodies of water, but the final version of the text leaves it up to Germany's individual states to set out detailed requirements.

READ ALSO: On heels of Bavaria victory, Germany plans insect protection law

“We're not against insect protection, but it needs to be adapted to modern agricultural practices,” 28-year-old farmer Wilke Luers said from behind the wheel of his tractor at the Berlin protest.

The government has argued that urgent action is needed because insects “play an important role in the ecosystem”.

Biologists have long warned that plummeting insect populations impact species diversity and damage the ecosystem by disrupting natural food chains and plant pollination.

'Taken far too long'

The German Farmers' Association (DBV) said in a letter addressed to Merkel that the planned legislation could reduce available agricultural land by seven percent.

It called for “cooperation” between farmers and environmentalists, and measures built around incentives instead of bans.

But Tomas Brückmann, from the Grüne Liga environmental organisation, dismissed the suggestion.

“We've been trying to cooperate with them for 20 years, it doesn't work,” he told AFP.

Archive photo shows a summer bee spotted in Friedberg in Hesse. Photo: DPA

His campaign group has urged the government not to water down the plans in the face of pressure from agricultural firms.

“The government must finally anchor into law the package of measures to protect insects that it committed to two years ago,” the group said in a statement. “It has taken far too long.”

German Environmental Minister Svenja Schulze, from the centre-left Social Democrats, first unveiled the insect protection proposals in 2019.

But the government's sign-off was repeatedly delayed by objections from conservative Agriculture Minister Julia Klöckner, who pushed for exceptions to some of the rules.

The final compromise thrashed out between the ministers will be revealed on Wednesday.

Green shift

The gulf between farmers and environmental activists has deepened in Germany in recent years as concerns about climate change have grown, partly because of the youth-led Fridays for Future protests.

The opposition Green party now regularly comes second in opinion polls after Merkel's conservative bloc, and it could well end up in a coalition government following September's general election.

READ ALSO: German bug watchers sound alarm to insect apocalypse

The shift in the public mood has spurred Merkel's government to act on animal welfare, leading to recent pledges to stop the mass culling of male chicks and ending the practice of castrating piglets without anaesthetic.

But farmers complain that they are carrying the cost for the new measures, and that the tougher regulations won't allow them to compete with cheaper agricultural products from abroad.

A large-scale study in Germany in 2017 was one of the first to raise global alarm bells about the plunge in insect populations, triggering warnings of an “ecological apocalypse”.

The study found that, measured by weight, flying insect populations across German nature reserves had declined by more than 75 percent in 27 years.

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