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MY SPANISH CAREER

RESTAURANT

‘If you’re going to open a café, personalize it!’

This week in My Spanish Career we talk to Ryan Day, an American writer-turned-café-owner about how to avoid a bureaucratic nightmare when setting up shop in Spain and what to do to make your food joint stand out from the rest.

'If you're going to open a café, personalize it!'
Ryan describes The Toast as a literary cafe, a hamburger joint, a vegetarian haven and a musical meeting point.

So Ryan, how did you end up moving to Madrid?

I came over from my native Chicago seven years ago to do an MA in English at the Autonomous University of Madrid. 

How did you come up with the idea for The Toast Café?

I’d co-run a burritos bar in Madrid before so I knew that American-style eateries can be successful in a big, cosmopolitan city like Madrid.

I wanted to do something that wasn't English teaching to earn a living so when the opportunity to set up a breakfast café with my de facto partner Claudia came up, I took it.

How easy was it to set up shop?

We had a limited budget but we still tried to make it all as easy as possible.

It’s a lot more straightforward if you rent out a place that already has a liquor license.

We did a simple transfer, or traspaso in Spanish, and once our names were on the contract we had the right to sell alcohol.

We also chose a place that had all the essentials – furniture and a fully-equipped kitchen.

I think you’re always going to run into bureaucracy wherever you go. Yes, there are bills and charges that seem to crop up out of nowhere but I think it’s the same anywhere else.

So what makes The Toast Café stand out in Madrid, a city of countless bars and cafés?

Well, we cater for a different audience. During the week we have many American customers, many of them students who are looking for food like what they get back home but for affordable prices.

Then at weekends our clientele is mainly Spanish, but we have many other nationalities too.

We also seem to get a lot of mixed nationality couples.

I think people coming to The Toast are looking for a different experience. I don’t want to be harsh on all the other bars in our area but all of them seem to offer the same food and atmosphere.

We're a literary cafe, a hamburger joint, a vegetarian haven, a musical meeting point.

Malasaña and Chueca are the only two neighbourhoods I can think of in the city where you get loads of specialized and quirky food joints similar to ours.

What else goes on at The Toast?

All kinds – writers’ night on Tuesdays, concerts on Saturdays, the odd art exhibit from time to time.

Where is your staff from?

They’re American, Spanish and French.

What’s a must-try for your customers?

Our Big Apple hamburger with cheddar, bacon and of course apple!

What advice would you give to anyone trying to set up a café in Spain at the moment?

Make sure you make it yours. Personalize your food and your space. We've gone for a décor that’s similar to the freedom cafés you’d find in Chicago and DC in the 1920’s.

Our breakfast bar, which we initially sought to make a meeting point for Madrid-based writers, has evolved into so much more than just a place to get tasty pancakes.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Why do they pour cider like that in Spain’s Asturias?

The green northern region’s drink of choice is cider but it’s the method waiters have of pouring it from a great height that catches the attention of ‘out-ciders’.

Why do they pour cider like that in Spain's Asturias?

They say Asturian blood is 50 percent water and 50 percent cider, and given the 40 million bottles produced every year in the region, it doesn’t seem too hard to believe.

However, it’s the method of serving cider in Asturias which really captures the imagination. 

The bottle will either come attached to a contraption which sucks up the cider and splurts it into a wide but thin-rimmed glass.

Or the waiter will come out every few minutes to grab your bottle and glass, lift the former high up with one arm and the latter down low around waist height before pouring some of the cider into the glass from at an arm’s length. 

There’s even a verb for this action – escanciar – to decant.  

The objective is for the cider to be shaken and aerated so that its natural carbon dioxide ‘awakens’.

When it is poured from above and hits the glass, carbon dioxide bubbles are produced that make the aroma of the cider come alive.

It’s good and normal for there to be splashback when pouring Asturian cider, but the aim is still to get most of it in the glass. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)

These bubbles go away quickly so once served, the customer should quickly drink the culín (small bottom) up in one swig. 

The action of escanciar imitates how cider would be traditionally served when it went directly from big oak barrels to the glass, as cider has been the drink of choice in Asturians since before Roman times. 

READ ALSO: Why Spaniards’ habit of drinking alcohol every day is surprisingly healthy

This is after all natural cider which doesn’t come with the sugar, additives and pre-carbonated mixes of brands such as Strongbow, Magners or Kopparberg.

“It took me some time to get the hang of pouring cider, I missed the mark a lot, and my arm used to get very tired at first,” a Latin American waitress at a bar in Gijón told The Local Spain. 

Many sidrerías (cider houses) and restaurants have cylindrical tubes on wheels where escanciadores (the waiters in charge of pouring cider) can put the glass in to avoid making a mess on the floor or splashing customers, as there is always some splatter even if they don’t completely miss the mark. 

A waiter pours cider for customers at a cider bar in the northern Spanish city of Oviedo (Photo by RAFA RIVAS / AFP)

The more old-school chigres (cider house in Asturian) prefer to have sawdust all over the floor to absorb the spilt cider.

To pour, tirar (throw) or escanciar (decant) cider like an Asturian, you should tilt the bottle slowly from above and aim for the cider to hit the top part of the inside side of the glass, which has to be held at a 45-degree angle. It’s this that brings out the effervescence out in la sidra natural.  

So when you visit the beautiful region of Asturias and you tuck into their famously ample servings of fabada asturiana (Asturian bean stew) or cachopo (meat, cheese and ham all together in breadcrumbs), washed down with one or two bottles of sidra, now you’ll understand what’s behind this eye-catching tradition.

READ ALSO: Eight fascinating facts about Spain’s Asturias region

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