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NORTHERN SWEDEN DISPATCHES

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‘I love it when Swedish stereotypes fall apart’

With the sun finally showing its face in the far north of Sweden, ex-Londoner Paul Connolly debunks some of the common stereotypes about his corner of the country, and explains how some recent good news may help break the social barrier.

'I love it when Swedish stereotypes fall apart'

I love it when northern Sweden confounds stereotypes. I sometimes think back to the days before we moved here, when friends from Stockholm warned us that northerners were xenophobic and unfriendly and that the north was a very dark place. These stereotypical views were almost entirely incorrect.

The northern Swedes I’ve met have almost all been of a liberal, inclusive sort – they talk about how they welcome new cultures. One of my older neighbours, a retired engineer, recently said, “We need new blood here – new culture means freshness and vitality.”

Another, a teacher, agrees. “A people cannot be strong without new people and new culture – diversity is good for us. Otherwise we just stand still.” Of course, you can’t extrapolate from the views of a few but the fact remains: I have heard no derogatory comments about foreigners at all. Not one. So much for the racist north.

Another hoary old stereotype has also been totally blown out of the water recently. At the end of February, the days quickly started to become much longer and brighter. By the second week of March we were being awoken at 5.15am by the daylight streaming in to our room (we’re mid-renovation and blinds are not yet an option).

At this time of year the days are already 35 minutes longer here than in Stockholm and more than an hour longer than in my old home town, London. Northern Sweden is an incredibly bright place to live for at least seven months of the year. Another stereotype bites the dust.

On to stereotype three; unfriendliness. I’ll admit it now – making friends has been difficult. “Ah, the unfriendly northern Swedes strike again,” I hear some of you say. Well, yes, and no.

Our neighbours are very friendly. Already we’re quite close to at least two of our neighbours – we pop round to watch the hockey, they come round for fika. We’ve also become friends with the older couple from whom we bought our house. The local townspeople are very friendly too. We’re always greeted with a smile in the local Coop grocers or the hardware store. But we have not made many friends outside of those who live immediately adjacent to us. Indeed we have made only two friends who don’t live in our village or who used to live in our village.

Why is this? Are people put off by my size and brashness? Do they really harbour secret xenophobic thoughts towards us? Are northern Swedes essentially quite unfriendly? I can’t honestly say that any one of these reasons is invalid. You can never really know for sure. However, there is one very obvious factor that is hampering our efforts to make new friends. There are no pubs or bars up here, certainly not in rural areas.

There’s no central place for people to meet to socialize. Everywhere I’ve ever lived, from London to Ireland, the pub has been a social hub, somewhere you pop in for a quick drink on the way back from work or where you meet up with other local folk for a beer and a chat. Not up here it isn’t.

Our nearest pub is a 50 minute drive away in a big town. There’s a local(ish) pizza joint in a small town but it’s shut by 8pm. Seriously, no wonder younger people (and I’m talking about those in their late teens and twenties) head straight for cities when they’re old enough. There’s no social life in the countryside – why would you stay?

We’ve even been told that dinner invitations are not “done”, that they’re not very common up here. We’ve been informed that the only place to meet new people is at social events revolving around children, that kids offer people a chance to socialize. We don’t have kids, however. Not yet, anyway.

But a solution to our social isolation could soon be upon us. Donna is pregnant with twins. Our days as social pariahs may soon be at an end. Give praise for the little ones!

Paul Connolly

Read more from Paul here, including his Northern Dispatch column

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How Extinction Rebellion is training up budding climate activists in Berlin

Climate activist group Extinction Rebellion is staging protests around the world to demand drastic environmental protection. Here's how they're training people to take part in civil disobedience in Berlin.

How Extinction Rebellion is training up budding climate activists in Berlin
Extinction Rebellion protesters near Berlin's Potsdamer Platz. Photo: DPA

Seated on the floor, Extinction Rebellion (XR) activists are rehearsing blocking a street at the base of a disused building
in central Berlin, one of their planned actions to pressure governments to “tell the truth” about “climate and ecological emergency”.

After the police issue three warnings, “now they're going to clear you out. It's time to close ranks on the ground!” shouts Tori, an energetic 20-year-old organizer.

A young Berliner, she and other activists prefer not to be named.

READ ALSO: Climate activists block traffic in Berlin as protests heat up

On this cold autumn morning, the XR group is training non-violent civil disobedience, a core technique of the movement since it was founded in Britain last year.

Around 150 people, from dyed-in-the-wool supporters to total climate protest beginners, have gathered at the “House of Statistics”, a former East German government building close to the unmistakeable TV tower at Alexanderplatz.

In a crash course lasting just three hours, they are being integrated into a global environmentalist movement that has made itself felt across the world since Monday.

The roughly gender-balanced attendees are mostly young, between 20 and 30, and white.

Sitting on the ground wearing woollen hats and scarves against the long hours exposed to the chill, the would-be demonstrators fold their arms beneath their thighs.

'Little package'

“Turn yourself into a little package,” one of the organizers advises.

His dreadlocks tied into a bun, he encourages participants to come together in “buddy groups” of ten or so strong to provide mutual support during the sit-ins.

Police with demonstrators in Berlin. Photo: DPA

Then fellow activists playing the role of police begin lifting them from the ground to clear them away.

“If I'm arrested, should I let them take my photo and my fingerprints?” asks one man.

“Can I wear an animal face mask?” asks another.

A third wonders “Can I ask them for vegan food while I'm in custody?”

Now the assembly have gathered around a disused dodgem car stand and are passing around a flask of hot tea.

“Hide your face as little as possible during an action… keep ID on you…leave your mobile phone at home,” Tori advises.

READ ALSO: What are the key points of Merkel's new climate strategy?

Everyone should “ask themselves what their limits are” before blocking a bridge or stopping car traffic, she adds, saying none of the 150 people present should feel bad about leaving a barricade before the police arrive or failing to expose themselves to arrest.

A 28-year-old student calling himself “the lion” tells AFP he's happy to go all the way.

“Civil disobedience is the only way to make my voice heard,” he believes.

'Pacifism'

Even so, “I'm a pacifist, and I've never been in a fight,” the young man adds.

Nearby, two women are following XR's guidelines by marking a phone number for a legal advice service on their arms, giving them a contact in case they are arrested.

“Extinction Rebellion does not commit crimes,” Tori tells her audience.

XR Protesters wear red at the Brandenburg Gate. Photo: DPA

“It's very important that you don't attack anyone either. Our top priority is non-violence,” she insists, repeating the message several times.

Around 2pm, the training is over, and there is no time for a break before another hundred-odd people arrive for the day's second session.

“Back when we started in February, we were doing one or two training sessions a month. Now it's three per week, and five per day these last few days,” she tells AFP.

Another activist shows up asking “if I'm cleared out by the police, am I allowed to come back and rejoin the sit-in?”, dragging the young trainer back into her work.

By Yannick Pasquet

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