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FASHION

Fresh Prince fights for spring fashion’s top slot

The tardy spring has affected the fashion industry as much as people's moods, but in anticipation of sunshine, The Local's Ann Törnkvist asks a vintage expert how to wear spring's main trends in Sweden.

Fresh Prince fights for spring fashion's top slot

The concrete ramp down to the basement stores is guarded by mannequins all decked out in black and white. Monochrome is a big runway trend easily translated by picking up second hand gems, but the fresh breeze from the street outside even make the dolls look like they are shivering.

“We even sold a fur coat last week,” says Beyond Retro store manager Niklas Lundqvist.

He himself is wearing what he terms an amalgamation of three current trends for men: plateau boots, monochrome (his black and white trousers have vertical stripes), and a Los Angeles Kings sweatshirt.

“Fresh Prince of Bel Air is all the rage for vintage enthusiasts, we can’t seem to stock enough sweatshirts at the moment,” says Lundqvist, gently tugging at the sleeve of a forest green number.

He encourages trend-sensitive men to take cues from seasonal women’s wear and interpret it, as mainstream male fashion is more detail-orientated. The five trends he has selected – Fresh Prince, Luxury Grunge, Monochrome, Denim, and Fresh Prints – can all be unisex.

IN PICTURES Five trends for Swedish spring

“I realized I got to the age where I am now seeing a trend hit hard three times,” Lundqvist says. “I used to borrow my big sister’s workout gear in the eighties and wear it.”

The eighties’ Flash Dance era when leggings were de rigeur teamed with an oversize sweater did fizzle out, only to re-emerge in the nineties in the shape of the nerdy sports team cult. Not only Sporty Spice in her side-stripe sweatpants, but all things American, all very much in the spirit of the Fresh Prince of Bel Air television show starring Will Smith.

It was not uncommon for Swedish teenagers at the time to wear sweatshirts with the names of US baseball, football or hockey teams. Lundqvist dishes up the Anaheim Mighty Ducks logo as an example, but says that names of Swedish teams is a strict no no.

“Seriously, you wanna wear Modo on your chest?” he says, referencing the Swedish ice hockey team. The Americana trends stretches to baseball caps.

“My guy friends and I spend a lot of time on eBay scouting for good ones,” says Lundqvist, who is a former fashion trend spotter for the tabloid Aftonbladet.

And while in the nineties, let’s look at another current revamp. Luxury Grunge – in essence re-introduced by Dries van Noten’s much-lauded spring/summer collection where models combined checked shirts with exclusive fabrics, such as a silver lamé pencil skirt. Saint Laurent sported a similar but less audacious take one season later at the recent Paris shows.

Original grunge, as many may remember, was rather unkempt. That didn’t stop melancholic teens of the epoch from latching onto Nirvana front man Kurt Cobain’s untimely demise and, sartorially at least, join the throngs of true fans.

In short, imagine giving Courtney Love a bath and sending her to finishing school. Rather uninspiring as a social experiment, but old standard in terms of current trends. Wearing your jeans until they split at the knee is optional.

Denim, however, is not optional. Rather than a trend, it’s a staple, and Lundqvist points out that while the big fashion magazines may go wild over a specific cut or dye depending on the season, vintage customers are comfortable referencing different eras.

The diversity stretches to another staple that comes and goes in waves – Fresh prints stretching from preppy to psychedelic. Lundqvist doesn’t want to classify it as floral, and hangs up both a lime-green paisley shirt and a shirt that tends to the eighties, that in fact merges a bit with the Fresh Prince trend. There is also, however, both Mayan-inspired prints and finer clusters of small flowers that draw comparisons to the classic Liberty prints.

Lundqvist unearths a shirt that screams Chandler Bing from the television series Friends, early Friends. It would make many a man run for the forest.

“It doesn’t matter what print it is,” says Lundqvist. “Every print sells.”

Ann Törnkvist

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FASHION

Paris exhibition celebrates 100 years of French Vogue

A new exhibition in Paris will tell the story of 100 years of French Vogue - from the post-war 'New Look' of Christian Dior through the sexual liberation of the 1960s to the dangling-cigarette waifs of the 2000s.

French Vogue celebrates 100 years
French Vogue celebrates 100 years. Photo: Thomas Olva/AFP

But as well as celebrating the magazine’s storied history, the exhibit comes at a time of turbulence for the publication.

Just last month, it was confirmed that its editor of 10 years, Emmanuelle Alt, was out and wouldn’t be replaced.

She was not alone.

Looking to cut costs, owner Conde Nast International has axed editors across Europe over the past year, and put international Vogue editions under the direct control of global editorial director, Anna Wintour, in New York.

New York-based Anna Wintour now has overall control of French Vogue. Photo by Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP

Like much of the media industry, Vogue is struggling with tumbling sales and ad revenue in the digital era.

But the latest twist is also part of the endless push and pull between New York and Paris going back to its early days.

“The whole history of French Vogue is one of back-and-forth with Conde Nast in New York – growing more independent for a while, then being reined back in,” said Sylvie Lecallier, curator of the new exhibition, “Vogue Paris 1920-2020″, which opened this weekend after a year’s delay due to the pandemic.

The Paris edition was often the loftier, more bohemian sibling to its more hard-nosed New York version.

But it was also the hotbed in which much of 20th century style and womenhood came to be defined.

“Paris was the place to hunt out talent and content and bring it to New York,” said Lecallier.

The exhibition charts the evolution from art deco drawings of the 1920s through the erotic image-making of photographers like Helmut Newton in the 1960s and 1970s.

Its last peak was under editor Carine Roitfeld in the 2000s, who brought back a provocative Gallic identity by ridding the newsroom of foreign staff and becoming a fashion icon in her own right.

Her successor, Alt, was a quieter presence, though she still oversaw key moments including its first transgender cover star, Brazilian Valentina Sampaio, in 2017.

But internet culture has created “a perfect storm” for Vogue, says media expert Douglas McCabe of Enders Analysis.

“The first 80 years of Vogue’s life, it had the market to itself, it was the bible for fashion,” McCabe told AFP.

“But online today, there are so many other ways to get your information. Influencers, Instagram, YouTube — everyone’s a threat.”

In a world where new fashion trends can blow up around the world in seconds, it has become much harder for a monthly magazine to set the pace.

“It’s not that they can’t survive for another 100 years — but they will be differently sized,” McCabe said.

Vogue has tried to branch out into different areas, including events.

“I used to work for a magazine, and today I work for a brand,” Alt said on the eve of French Vogue’s 1,000th issue in 2019.

But the big money was always in print, and Vogue Paris sales are dropping steadily from 98,345 in 2017 to 81,962 to 2020, according to data site ACPM.

It is perhaps unsurprising that the new top job in Paris, redefined as “head of editorial content”, went to Eugenie Trochu, who was key to building the magazine’s online presence.

She declared herself “thrilled to be part of Vogue’s international transformation”.

For the curator of the exhibition, it is ironic timing.

“We had no idea it would end like this when we started work on the exhibition,” said Lecallier.

“Who knows where it will go from here.”

The exhibition Vogue Paris 1920-2020 is at the Palais Galliera in Paris’ 16th arrondissement. The gallery is open 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday and is closed on Mondays. Tickets for the exhibition are €14 (€12 for concessions and under 18s go free) and must be reserved online in advance. 

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