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Three Swedish eateries get Michelin stars

Wood-fired meals, new-Nordic cuisine, and classic seafood are on the menus at the Swedish restaurants that have received stars from the prestigious European guide.

Published: 14 March 2013 11:47 CET
Updated: 14 March 2013 13:49 CET

Three Swedish eateries get Michelin stars

Two of the restaurants – Ekstedt and Gastrolik – are in Stockholm and one – Sjömagasinet – is in Gothenburg.

“Unexpected and really fun. Thanks #Michelin and everyone at #ekstedt,” chef and restaurant-owner Niklas Ekstedt tweeted after receiving the news.

At Ekstedt’s restaurant, all dishes are prepared in a wood-burning hearth, fire pit or wood-fired stove.

The restaurant uses only Scandinavian woods to fuel its fires and the interiors are inspired by the nature of Ekstedt’s native Jämtland, a region in northern Sweden along the border with Norway.

“With the best that Sweden has to offer, and with inspiration from around the world, I aspire to create extraordinary dishes,” Ekstedt explains on the restaurant’s website.

“Prepared in the way our ancestors laid it out for us. Simply put, back to basics.”

Gastrolik, too, focuses on Nordic flavours and produce.

Chefs Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr describe their restaurant as a “new-Nordic kitchen”, where seasonal supply and demand guide the selection of produce. That means the menu is always changing.

“We refuse to limit our selection of producers or offer a pre-determined menu, preferring to be inspired by the element of surprise,” the chefs explain.

Sjömagasinet in Gothenburg offers a classic kitchen inspired by the fruits of the sea, with head chef Ulf Wagner mixing traditional and creative dishes.

Wagner has worked alongside many famous chefs at a number of quality restaurants, including The Place. There, he became the first in Gothenburg to receive a one star in the Guide Michelin.

In total, thirteen Swedish restaurants now have 15 Michelin stars between them.

Only a couple of those have received two stars, but no Swedish restaurant has received the highest, three-star mark from the prestigious restaurant guide.

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OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits.

SEE ALSO: What’s the tipping etiquette in Sweden?

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user).

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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