SHARE
COPY LINK

TELEVISION

Show lets Swedes eat their way through history

Moonshine, baked frogs and perfumed swans. A new Swedish television serves up the best culinary experiences of generations past. The Local catches up with host Lotta Lundgren to find out more.

Show lets Swedes eat their way through history

Swedish TV personalities Eric Haag and Lotta Lundgren star in Historieätarna (‘History Eaters’), a new programme broadcast on Sveriges Television (SVT).

Setting off in the 1650s, the series takes viewers and their taste buds on a virtual journey ending in the 1970s, offering up copious culinary delights and historical nuggets along the way.

The Local: Do you see this experience as a culinary trip into history?

Lotta Lundgren: No I don’t. It’s a trip in time and my mission is to express how a person could have felt from eating this kind of food and living this lifestyle. I can eat good food whenever, but this food I only have the chance to eat once in a lifetime!

TL: Which was your favorite era?

LL: Oh, that’s difficult to say. It’s been easier to relate to the eras closest to our time. I was born in the seventies, my parents were born in the forties and my grandparents in the twenties. But If I had to choose an era to live in, I’d choose today’s.

TL: What was the most outrageous thing you did during the series?

LL: There are too many things to choose from. I think the craziest thing I did was to claim I could ride a horse, even though I couldn’t. But to impress our producer, I rode a small four-year-old horse that had been indoors all day and was about to explode.

We were going to film me galloping a few metres and the photographer sat in the trunk of a car. When we got the green light to start filming, it took five seconds for the horse to run past the car, but then it continued for five kilometres and in some weird way – I managed to stay on the horse.

TL: You drank only beer and moonshine to stay true to the era. How did that feel?

LL: You get used to it! Starting your day with a big brew seems less outrageous than not doing it.

I think it’s important to add that people 100 years ago would have had a tough day if they didn’t start it with mild inebriation. They dealt with poorly healed broken bones, concerns about the food quantity, the cold, the anxiety. As well as constant worrying about the sick, the dying or the already dead children.

I allow our ancestors every drop!

TL: How about the 1650s? What was normally served during dinner in that age?

LL: It would be very rude for a dinner host to serve less than thirty dishes during a meal. The most important factor was that the food would be entertaining, and would stimulate fun conversations.

One has to remember that neither TV, cinemas nor the internet existed – instead, dinner became this big festive theater where crazy food such as roasted and perfumed swans decorated with jewellery could be served. The goal was to make the dinner as memorable as possible for the guest.

TL: How was it to be on a diet based on intestines, rooster heads, and small birds?

LL: Not weird at all. It’s a classic LCHF-diet! After a while it felt natural to start the day off with dried duck with rancid butter. But for those who are not too fond of meat, vegetarianism was also an option. But you can forget about light salads. If you belonged to the poor, you more or less lived off of rye, turnips and peas.

Had the poor been given the opportunity to choose, they’d just as easily have eaten as much meat as the aristocrats. But for the aristocrats to have chosen to add vegetables to a meat-based dinner would probably have seemed rather suspect.

Historieätarna airs at 9pm on Thursdays on SVT1

Derya Aktas

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

SHOW COMMENTS