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GWEN'S GUIDE TO STOCKHOLM

STOCKHOLM SECTION

Finding a fab place for fika with a twist

As the daylight in Stockholm dwindles, finding a place to catch up with friends is all the more important for beating back the winter blues. Luckily, contributor Gwen Ramsey has put together a list of great options for your next fika.

Finding a fab place for fika with a twist

I have never been a fan of the word fika. One can wonder if the term is still relevant today since we have come to expect so much more from this Swedish inspired custom of meeting friends or family for a cup of coffee or tea and perhaps a snack.

Instead of serving guests a café latte and a kanel bulle many cafes in town are finding a niche and dramatically exceeding our expectations of what one should expect from this sacred tradition.

Gärdet: Carrotte

Sandwiched between Mekonomen and Tullverket, it is easy to miss the very charming Carrotte. This delicatessen/café is definitely worth the trip out to Frihamnen. For many cafes in town, organic, healthy and locally produced equals boring and tasteless food that costs a lot and lacks creativity.

That is not the case here. Carotte puts their own spin on things. Try their salad with fresh seared tuna or the Boeuf bourguignon with is a regular on their lunch menu. If your lunch was too healthy then stay for dessert and try their fabulous selection of teas and homemade cookies or scones.

Östermalm: Kaffe Verket (also known as Snickarbacken 7)

Snickarbacken used to be an old stable but has since been converted into a place where boutiques, office spaces and cafe merge. Tucked away on a side street, this space is recognizable from Birger Jarlsgatan by the big electric “7” hanging over the doorway.

Whereas most Östermalm cafes are traditional and cozy, Sickarbacken 7 is minimalistic and hip. The narrow café is lined with steel benches against one wall so that guests can watch the baristas perform their magic. The menu here is short and to the point. Order a coffee made from their meticulously sourced beans, a fresh squeezed orange juice with ginger and the homemade egg sandwich on sourdough bread. You wont be disappointed.

City

Kafe Esaias

Believe it or not there is an oasis for coffee lovers in the middle of the chain-packed street of Drottninggatan. Kafe Esaias is a simple location with extremely good coffee. Their traditional brewed coffee is excellent as are their espresso drinks.

Esaias gets their baked goods from the very popular Bakery & Spice, but get there early because most of their baked goods are already sold out by lunch on the weekends. Also worth noting is that their staff is incredibly friendly.

Sosta Coffee Bar

The original Sosta Coffee Bar on Jakobsbergsgatan has won numerous awards for its coffee. Most, however don’t know that they have opened a second location on Sveavägen. This second outpost is much smaller than the original one, much more authentic to its Italian roots and in my opinion, much better.

Businessmen line up elbow to elbow at the crowded bar with their morning papers in a multitude of languages and order a “short” espresso and a small croissant sandwich. There isn’t a lot of room here so leave the strollers at home.

Vasastan: Salinos Espressobar

Salinos Espressobar on the corner of Odenplan is one of those places that you walk by numerous times before you notice it. This family owned and operated café prides themselves on Italian sweets and specialties made with carefully sourced, high quality goods.

Their espresso drinks are much better than their regular coffee, but it is their food, small Italian sandwiches with Taleggio and mushrooms or a hearty soup that makes you feel at home here.

Kungsholmen: Le Petite France

You know that Le Petite France has done something right from the length of the line that extends outside the door. Their numerous awards for best café in Stockholm has made it a challenge to get a table here on a Saturday or Sunday morning, but I can assure you that it is worth the wait.

Here you can order a creamy café au lait together with the best croissant in town or a more luxurious tarte aux pommes. If you want something on the more savory side then go for the croque madame a delectable salad or picture perfect omelette.

Don’t forget to buy a few loaves of their freshly made bread before you head home. If you aren’t yet convinced then check out the owner Sebastian’s blog. These pictures are sure to send you running to Le Petite France.

Södermalm: Johan & Nyström

Johan & Nyström is already well established, but I had to include it here because they have very unique offerings and their coffee is just so darn good. Their employees are true pioneers in the art of coffee making. If the ever-changing menu is confusing then let them help you choose the right beans and brew for you. 

Their staff is well-trained and they enthusiastically discuss the origin, smell and aftertaste of each option. Sandwiches seem a little pricey at 55 kronor ($8.50) but they have inspiring combinations in a town where ham and cheese sandwich is all too common. Their desserts are supplied by Dessert & Chokolad Stockholm and are even more delicious than they look. 

Also worth noting is that Johan & Nyström collaborated with Blossa to select the coffee beans that are used in this years much awaited Blossa Glögg.

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FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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