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SUMMER IN SWEDEN

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Island hopping in Stockholm’s archipelago

With Midsummer rapidly approaching, The Local's Clara Guibourg explores the wonders of the Stockholm archipelago and discovers a couple of gems off the beaten track.

Island hopping in Stockholm's archipelago
Photo: Björn Tesch/imagebank.sweden.se

The last vestiges of a long winter are behind us at last, and with Midsummer rapidly approaching, it's time for those in the area to make the most of Stockholm's undoubtedly loveliest feature – the water.

So shed your heavy winter coat, get out of that office in which you've been hibernating, and get ready to start enjoying the Swedish capital and its environs boatside!

Stockholm's large archipelago is well-known for its natural beauty. With as many as 30,000 islands, both large and small, you've got your work cut out for you this summer if you want to visit them all.

Perennial hotspot Vaxholm and party town Sandhamn are tried-and-true favourites, among Swedes and visitors alike, but Stockholm's archipelago has lots more to offer.

Whether you long for solitude on a cliff facing the tranquility of the Sea of Åland, desire a more action-packed weekend with biking or kayaking, or simply want to enjoy a delicious meal in serene surroundings, the archipelago offers plenty of options.

“You don't have to travel far to find a lovely spot in Stockholm's archipelago,” Ann-Charlotte Jönsson of the Stockholm Visitors' Board tells The Local.

The easiest way to explore the area is to find a friend with a boat. Or better still: get a hold of a boat of your own.

This will give you a chance to explore the entire archipelago, free of boat companies' schedule constraints, and find your own hidden gems.

Obviously this isn't an option for most. If you don't have a boat to hand, the next best thing may be to purchase a Island-hopping card (Båtluffskortet) from Waxholmsbolaget, and go exploring.

This card costs 420 kronor ($68). It's valid for five days, and lets you visit as many archipelago destinations as you care for in that time.

“It's perfect if you want to be able to travel around, and visit several islands,” says Jönsson about the card.

So where to go?

The areas of the archipelago closest to the mainland are also the most populous, and are easily reached with frequent boats.

The larger islands in this area tend to have well-developed infrastructure, so there's no need to feel too cut off from civilisation.

Grinda and Möja are two easily reached islands less than two hours from Stockholm, that are popular partly due to their great hiking and walking paths.

Explore the woods and fields, or visit the animals on Grinda's farmhouse, open for everyone, to get the full countryside experience! Both islands also have a number of options for spending the night.

If what you're really craving is the archipelago's top spot for a swim, you could do worse than Finnhamn.

On the island is a beautiful natural harbour popularly known as Paradise (Paradiset).

Visit it, and you'll understand why!

Finnhamn also boasts the hostel Utsikten, that's happy to rent you a boat for a mini-excursion of your own, or lend you a set of the Swedish game kubb – if you're really nice, they may even reveal the rules of the game!

If you really want a break from city life, however, you may want to reach just a little bit further out to sea.

Heading towards open sea, the archipelago suddenly shapeshifts, and the previously woody islands morph into a surreal landscape of flat, craggy rocks.

The island groups Nassa and Svenska högarna are the end of the line here.

These destinations are seriously far out, and utterly idyllic, but hard to reach unless you have access to a boat, or are willing to shell out for a boat taxi.

Two more feasible options, if you want to get closer to the edges of Stockholm's archipelago, are Rödlöga and Utö.

Rödlöga is as far out to sea as Waxholmsbolaget's boats will take you, and is a holiday option for the more adventurous among us.

This remote island has no electricity, and bringing your own tent is the only sleeping option. But with a charming little village and shimmering red granite cliffs that give the island its name, Rödlöga will win you over in no time.

Those looking for a more active way to spend their holiday should make their way over to Utö. Biking your way around this beautiful island in the southern archipelago is an unforgettable experience.

Sure, your thighs will hate you for it, but you won't regret it once you've passed by the island's 200 year-old windmill, and perhaps bought a famous “Utö loaf” at the island's tempting bakery, before reaching the delightful sandy beaches facing open sea.

Utö is one of Ann-Charlotte Jönsson's personal favourites.

“I have so many great summer memories from there,” she says.

If a no-frills trip to the archipelago doesn't appeal to you, you can always up the glamour with a visit to luxurious Oaxen Krog, and combine great sea views with world-class dining.

This critically acclaimed restaurant on the island with the same name is described by Stockholm Visitors' Board as “Sweden's number one restaurant”!

Still hard at work, and have no time for full-day excursions? Make the most of your lunch break by making for Fjäderholmarna.

These are the most easily accessible of all the islands in the archipelago.

They can be reached by boats leaving from Slussen, in the center of Stockholm, in just 15 minutes.

You'll be sharing the archipelago experience with throngs of other excited visitors, but sit a while on the sun-drenched cliffs and the world around you is sure to fade away.

 

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TRAVEL NEWS

German train strike wave to end following new labour agreement

Germany's Deutsche Bahn rail operator and the GDL train drivers' union have reached a deal in a wage dispute that has caused months of crippling strikes in the country, the union said.

German train strike wave to end following new labour agreement

“The German Train Drivers’ Union (GDL) and Deutsche Bahn have reached a wage agreement,” GDL said in a statement.

Further details will be announced in a press conference on Tuesday, the union said. A spokesman for Deutsche Bahn also confirmed that an agreement had been reached.

Train drivers have walked out six times since November, causing disruption for huge numbers of passengers.

The strikes have often lasted for several days and have also caused disruption to freight traffic, with the most recent walkout in mid-March.

In late January, rail traffic was paralysed for five days on the national network in one of the longest strikes in Deutsche Bahn’s history.

READ ALSO: Why are German train drivers launching more strike action?

Europe’s largest economy has faced industrial action for months as workers and management across multiple sectors wrestle over terms amid high inflation and weak business activity.

The strikes have exacerbated an already gloomy economic picture, with the German economy shrinking 0.3 percent across the whole of last year.

What we know about the new offer so far

Through the new agreement, there will be optional reduction of a work week to 36 hours at the start of 2027, 35.5 hours from 2028 and then 35 hours from 2029. For the last three stages, employees must notify their employer themselves if they wish to take advantage of the reduction steps.

However, they can also opt to work the same or more hours – up to 40 hours per week are possible in under the new “optional model”.

“One thing is clear: if you work more, you get more money,” said Deutsche Bahn spokesperson Martin Seiler. Accordingly, employees will receive 2.7 percent more pay for each additional or unchanged working hour.

According to Deutsche Bahn, other parts of the agreement included a pay increase of 420 per month in two stages, a tax and duty-free inflation adjustment bonus of 2,850 and a term of 26 months.

Growing pressure

Last year’s walkouts cost Deutsche Bahn some 200 million, according to estimates by the operator, which overall recorded a net loss for 2023 of 2.35 billion.

Germany has historically been among the countries in Europe where workers went on strike the least.

But since the end of 2022, the country has seen growing labour unrest, while real wages have fallen by four percent since the start of the war in Ukraine.

German airline Lufthansa is also locked in wage disputes with ground staff and cabin crew.

Several strikes have severely disrupted the group’s business in recent weeks and will weigh on first-quarter results, according to the group’s management.

Airport security staff have also staged several walkouts since January.

Some politicians have called for Germany to put in place rules to restrict critical infrastructure like rail transport from industrial action.

But Chancellor Olaf Scholz has rejected the calls, arguing that “the right to strike is written in the constitution… and that is a democratic right for which unions and workers have fought”.

The strikes have piled growing pressure on the coalition government between Scholz’s Social Democrats, the Greens and the pro-business FDP, which has scored dismally in recent opinion polls.

The far-right AfD has been enjoying a boost in popularity amid the unrest with elections in three key former East German states due to take place later this year.

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