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Pubs in Stockholm: keeping it real

Like most capitals, Stockholm offers plenty of watering holes for the homesick expat looking for a “taste of home”, The Local's Geoff Mortimore discovers.

Pubs in Stockholm: keeping it real

For Brits in particular, the pub life is something many still miss most of all about home. So from real ale specialists, to rowdy places full of football fans, here is a small selection of what Sweden’s largest city has to offer.

One of the best places to start is the oldest and best known of all is The Tudor Arms (www.tudorarms.com) – the grand old daddy of English pubs in Stockholm. It has become an institution in the city, since it first opened its doors in 1969 and is currently being managed by the second generation of the family.

In 2009, The Tudor won the Daily Telegraph “Best English Pub in the world” competition. The judges at the time said, “In our search for the best British pubs around the world, there were quite a few that appeared to be British, had British names, and so on. But often when you dug deeper, the Britishness was just skin-deep, a marketing tool to try to be fashionable or to attract tourists. Not so with this pub.”

What it does offer is good beer, good food, and just the kind of environment most British immigrants miss most about home. In short, it is a corner of England in our back yard, with, I am reliably informed, a steak and mushroom pie not to be missed.

The Tudor is by no means the only option though. In the heart of Stureplan, The Bull and Bear (http://www.bullandbear.se) has picked up a glowing reputation in recent years, not just for the beer but a convivial atmosphere offering a relief away from some of the painful wannabe bars in the glitziest part of town.

Stockholm’s British pubs are normally dark, cosy affairs, which is a blueprint followed by The Spitfire not far from Stureplan on Birger Jarlsgatan. It tends to be popular among the football watching brigade and has a real “locals” feeling about the place.

Another longstanding institution for foreign drinkers is The Dubliner (www.dubliner.se), which decamped from its roots in Central Östermalm to a new location by Sergelstorg a couple of years ago.

It is one of the best pubs in town beer-wise and pretty much unbeatable for watching sport. Throw in the live music and comedy and it is easy to see why it is as popular as ever.

Gamla Stan meanwhile has several options, one of the best being Wirströms (www.wirstromspub.se) Despite the name, this drinking hole has a cosy British Isles hole-in-the-wall kind of feeling exemplified by its cellar downstairs, which hosts live music and for the real experts, its own whiskey club.

Meanwhile The Liffey (www.theliffey.se), just down the road, has also become very popular among Brits, Irish and antipodeans based here, not least for the live comedy.

Södermalm naturally has its fair share of great pubs for expats from the UK or anyone looking for a taste of the British Isles. A personal favourite is the Oliver Twist (www.olivertwist.se), tucked away close to Götgatan, the main shopping street on the inner-city island.

Interestingly it was the first pub outside the UK, along with sister pub Akkurat, to receive Cask Marque accreditation, which, I am reliably informed, says a lot about the quality of the beer, while the food here is outstanding too.

Akkurat (www.akkurat.se) on Hornsgatan meanwhile, is justifiably widely known for its huge range of specialist beers and whiskies, not to mention its themed nights and special tastings.

Elsewhere on Södermalm, The Big Ben has worked hard to provide that “home away from home” atmosphere without feeling overdone, while The Bishop’s Arms (www.bishopsarms.com) on Bellmansgatan is part of a successful chain which first opened its doors in Västerås in 1993.

A nearby favourite on Hornsgatan is Black & Brown (http://www.blackandbrown.se/). While Swedish owned and run, the pub serves a range of food and beer that would tickle the taste-buds of even the most discerning “real” beer lover.

Further along Hornsgatan can be found The Southside (http://www.southsidepub.se/) which markets itself as an “Irish restaurant and entertainment pub” with all the sports, quiz nights and guitar-strumming crooners that the Stockholm exile could demand.

The Bishop’s Arms sister pub in Stockholm is on St Eriksgatan on Kungsholmen, with both offering a wide range of draught beers, and plenty of Belgian specialities.

To sum up, unless you import a group of friends or have been here long enough to be able to call somewhere your “local” then replicating the pub experience you miss so much at home will never be quite the same in Stockholm.

However, if all you miss is a good pint, and a British crowd in familiar feeling surroundings, the chances are you will have to walk less than a kilometre in any direction to quench your thirst both physically and spiritually.

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How the Covid crisis led to a boom in Swiss beer production

Switzerland now boasts the highest density of breweries anywhere in Europe, with the Covid crisis a major factor in transforming the country into a beer hub.

How the Covid crisis led to a boom in Swiss beer production
The Feldschlösschen brewery. While Feldschlösschen might be the country's best known beer, there are hundreds of smaller breweries worth checking out. Photo: Wikicommons.

When it comes to food and drink exports, Switzerland is best known for cheese and chocolate. While Swiss wine has carved out a niche on the global stage, it is Swiss beer which has recently started to make its mark on the global stage. 

In 2020, 80 new breweries were established in Switzerland. 

Switzerland now has 1,212 breweries – which gives it a higher ratio of breweries to people than any of the other big brewing nations in Europe, including Germany, the Netherlands, the Czech Republic and Belgium. 

Just ten years ago, Switzerland had only 246 breweries, while in 1990 there were only 32 breweries in the entire country, the Neue Zürcher Zeitung reports. 

Switzerland is getting thirstier

The explosion in brewery numbers is a consequence of a change in the Swiss appetite for beer. 

Reader question: Can you drink in public in Switzerland?

In recent years, the classic lager variety has gradually fallen out of favour, with the share of craft varieties growing by 43 percent over the past five years. 

The change is a genuine example of quality trumping quality when it comes to beer consumption. 

In 2010, the average amount of beer produced by each brewery in Switzerland was 11,000 hectolitres, while that is now less than 3,000. 

According to Switzerland’s NZZ, only 14 breweries produced more than 10,000 hectolitres of beer last year, while more than 1,000 breweries produced less than 50 hectolitres. 

While the variety of beers being consumed has expanded – particularly those made in Switzerland – the amount of beer each Swiss consumes has fallen slightly in recent years. 

In 2008 the average Swiss consumed 58 litres of beer, with 55 litres being consumed in 2019 – the last year for which figures are available. 

In 1980, the average Swiss consumed around 70 litres of beer per year. 

The following chart from Statista shows these trends. 

Beer consumption over time in Switzerland (per capita). Image: Statista

This pales in comparison with serious beer drinking countries, with the average yearly consumption in Germany being 140 litres. 

Wine still leads the way however in Switzerland. Of those who consume alcohol in Switzerland, 32 percent drink beer while just under half (49.4 percent) drink wine). 

While anyone bragging of cheap beer in Switzerland might have had a few too many, for people living in Switzerland the costs are relatively affordable. 

In addition to the high wages paid in Switzerland, the Swiss VAT rate of 7.7 percent is the lowest in the OECD, a 2021 study found. 

Statistics show that Switzerland has an above average consumption of beer per capita when compared to OECD countries. 

Just one in five Swiss abstain from alcohol completely, which is low by OECD standards. 

Why now? 

The proliferation of new breweries is obviously welcome for the nation’s beer drinkers, but it seems that Switzerland is coming late to the party. 

According to the NZZ, a major reason is Switzerland’s alcoholic drinks ‘cartel’, which meant that all alcohol was sold in standardised form nationwide. 

The cartel “regulated sales, prices, quality, recipe and range of products for which the whole country was advertised collectively and uniformly,” with the result being bland, mass market beers in each of Switzerland’s 26 cantons. 

The rules were so pervasive that even pub owners were in many cases restricted from choosing which beers they wanted to have on tap. 

Created in the early 1900s, this cartel survived until 1991, when it finally fell. In typical Swiss fashion, it was even kept in power by a referendum which took place in 1958. 

As a consequence of the change, it is now easier than ever to start smaller breweries – which in turn influenced the Swiss palette to move away from the standardised cartel lager and to more adventurous brews. 

Seven beers to try in Switzerland

Whether you’re a beer enthusiast or a sometime sipper, you’ve probably heard of the big market brands like Feldschlösschen, Haldengut and Gurten. 

Here are some lesser known brands which will tickle your fancy. 

Quöllfrisch

While most of the beers on this list are relatively unique, Quöllfrisch is a standard lager type beer with which most people will be familiar. 

However, it’s anything but standard and represents perhaps the best a blonde lager can be. From Appenzell, this beer is relatively easy to find no matter where you are in Switzerland. 

In fact, it’s served on Swiss airlines. 

De Saint Bon Chien

The L’Abbaye de Saint Bon-Chien is a truly unique beer. With a strength of 11 percent, the sour beer is aged in wooden barrels that previously contained red wine. 

Highly sought after, the beer comes from Saignelégier in the canton of Jura close to the French border. It is the highest ranked Swiss beer on the beer ranking site ‘Untappd’, with several discontinued beers from the same brewery sitting alongside it. 

Relatively difficult to get, it is available in small bottles or 20 litre kegs. 

Brüll!Bier

Zurich’s Brüll!Bier is one of the city’s best microbreweries.

Unlike many other Swiss breweries which tend to focus their efforts on only a few beers, Brüll!Bier brew several varieties touching on traditional styles, contemporary classics and experimental offerings. 

While the red ale and the helles are excellent session beers, one speciality is the Prince of Ales Yorkshire Pale Ale, which can only be found at the British Beer Corner in Zurich. 

Brewed to resemble a Yorkshire Pale Ale, it’s tasty and delicious – and will go down well even if you’ve never had a YPA before. 

Calvinus

Another beer that can be found in most parts of the country, Calvinus has several different traditional beer styles including a wheat beer, a thick dark ale and a Belgian pale ale. 

Originally from Geneva, it is now brewed in the mountains of Appenzell using only organic ingredients. 

According to legend, it is based on a recipe handed down in Geneva by Calvin the Reformer. 

Ittinger Klosterbräu

An amber ale with a relatively standard alcohol content (5.6 percent), Ittinger Klosterbräu is bitter but fruity. 

The beer is brewed in a former Carthusian monastery on the banks of the Thur river. 

It’s also one of the rare Swiss beers to be made with local hops – which are actually grown by the brewery itself – with more than 90 percent of beers made with hops exported from elsewhere in Switzerland. 

Bier Factory Rapperswil

Rapperswil, on the outskirts of Zurich, is not only a great place to live if you work in the city – but also a great place to have a few beers. 

The brewery has a taproom where you can try many of the beers they brew, including some staples and some experimental favourites. 

One of the best is the Wanderlust Pale Ale, a hoppy pale ale which can easily be a session beer. 

Appenzeller Castégna

Another beer from the beautiful Appenzeller region, Appenzeller Castégna is brewed with chestnuts grown in the southern canton of Ticino which give it a “sweet, chestnutty aroma” according to a rather uninventive online review. 

Brewed by Brauerei Locher, the Castégna is relatively difficult to find throughout the country other than in Ticino. 

It’s a proud vegan friendly beer, whatever that means, and is often served with desert due to its sweet taste. 

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