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DESIGN

Stockholm districts grab Design Week spotlight

As Stockholm Fashion Week draws to a close, the Swedish capital's design-savvy crowd gets ready to turn its attention to yet another showcase of Scandinavian creativity, explains contributor Charlotte West.

Stockholm districts grab Design Week spotlight
Designgalleriet; Light Bar - Alexander Lervik; Anna Hedlund/SFF

During the first two weeks of February, the Swedish capital will be reveling in the throes of Scandinavian creativity. Stockholm Design Week (SDW) is kicking off just as Stockholm Fashion Week wraps up.

Over the last few years, the Stockholm Furniture Fair (SFF) has morphed from a trade fair targeting retailers and manufacturers to a city-wide, weeklong celebration of design with a number of events and exhibitions open to the general public.

Running from February 7th-13th, Stockholm has earned its place in the international design circuit along with larger European capitals such as London and Milan.

The traditional furniture fair (February 8th-12th) is still located at Stockholm International Fairs (Stockholmsmässan) in the Stockholm suburb of Älvsjö. The fair is open for trade visitors Tuesday through Friday, and open to the general public on Saturday, February 12th.

Highlights of the fair include Greenhouse, which features the work of independent, up-and-coming designers and students. In conjunction with Greenhouse, visitors can see the jury-selected ung8 touring exhibition, aimed at young Swedish designers.

The fair’s Guest of Honour is Paris-based designer Arik Levy, originally from Israel, who has created furniture and lighting for a number of Swedish and international manufacturers.

“The fair has become the most important design event in the Nordic region as well as internationally. More and more international companies and designers are also choosing to exhibit in Stockholm,” says Daniel Golling, editor-in-chief of Form, a new Swedish design and architecture magazine that will be launched at Berns on Wednesday, February 8th.

Stefan Nilsson, trend analyst and curator at Designgalleriet design gallery, concurs.

“Stockholm Furniture Fair is is still the main attraction during Stockholm Design Week, but just as Milan or London have…become more than just fairs…Stockholm is now booming with creativity and lust for design. I guess all fair weeks need a creative side to the design aspect, so that it’s not all about contract furniture,” he says.

Nilsson adds that two major initiatives, Design in Vasastan and Stockholm Design District (Södermalm), have provided impetus to SDW. Both neighbourhoods boast clusters of design studios and galleries, and provide an alternative to the fair in the suburb of Älvsjö.

The emergence of “design districts” in Stockholm is parallel to what has occurred in Milan, perhaps the grandfather of all European design weeks, with neighbourhoods such as Zona Tortona becoming the venue of choice for more cutting edge, experimental design.

Nilsson is one of the founders of Design in Vasastan.

“We saw what was happening on an international level. People came to Stockholm for the fair but wanted more. You spend one day at the fairgrounds but then you want to see something else,” he explains.

He adds that SDW is more about creativity than design: “See it more as an arty project rather than ideas on how to furnish your home. The things in the city are more creative and experimental than just trying to find the perfect couch for your living room.”

Some of the more high profile events during the SWD include Form Us With Friends by design studio Form Us With Love. The exhibition, featuring the work of ateljé Lyktan, Bolon, Santa & Cole, Träullit and Westal, will be held in a church at a secret location in central Stockholm.

“Among pulpits and pillars, steaming fresh products and projects are presented together by five of our manufacturing friends from the design industry,” says designer Petrus Palmér.

Other highlights include 20 Designers at Biologiska, an exhibition featuring the work of designers from more than 15 countries. Held at the Biologiska Museum, the show “is about evolution, diversity, and universality, where contemporary design, art and light is housed in an unexpected context.”

Designgalleriet will be exhibiting the work of Italian designer Luca Nichetto during the week. Several hotels will also host small shows, including Light Jockeys at Nordic Light Hotel, Norway Now at Clarion Sign Hotel, and Check In at Hotel Birger Jarl.

While Stockholm Design Week is becoming more international, Swedish design is still at its core.

Nilsson doesn’t believe that Swedish design has gotten too far away from its past.

“Swedish design will always have roots in sleek minimalistic design. Swedes tend to work with these sort of unornamented objects. If you look at typical Swedish design you will also find that it is fairly affordable (compared to Italian equivalents) and functional,” he says.

Palmer agrees that Scandinavian sensibility prevails.

“Swedish design is a lot about sound choices and responsibility,” he says.

Golling weighs in on the hottest Swedish designers right now: “Front is showing their magazine rack for Kartell. Jens Fager did the exhibition architecture for Greenhouse at the fair. Luca Nichetto, who spends half of his time in Sweden, will be at Designgalleriet. Monica Förster’s joint exhibition with graphic designer Björn Kusoffsky at Svenskt Tenn’s temporary locale is worth a trip to Östermalm.”

Golling must be on the right track as Nilsson confirms two of his top picks.

“Front, Monica Förster and Claesson, Koivisto Rune are the best known designers on an international level. If you visit Stockholm during Stockholm Design Week, try to pass by the new hotel of Nobis designed by Claesson Koivisto Rune. Perhaps the coolest design place we have in the city right now,” he says.

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FASHION

Paris exhibition celebrates 100 years of French Vogue

A new exhibition in Paris will tell the story of 100 years of French Vogue - from the post-war 'New Look' of Christian Dior through the sexual liberation of the 1960s to the dangling-cigarette waifs of the 2000s.

French Vogue celebrates 100 years
French Vogue celebrates 100 years. Photo: Thomas Olva/AFP

But as well as celebrating the magazine’s storied history, the exhibit comes at a time of turbulence for the publication.

Just last month, it was confirmed that its editor of 10 years, Emmanuelle Alt, was out and wouldn’t be replaced.

She was not alone.

Looking to cut costs, owner Conde Nast International has axed editors across Europe over the past year, and put international Vogue editions under the direct control of global editorial director, Anna Wintour, in New York.

New York-based Anna Wintour now has overall control of French Vogue. Photo by Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP

Like much of the media industry, Vogue is struggling with tumbling sales and ad revenue in the digital era.

But the latest twist is also part of the endless push and pull between New York and Paris going back to its early days.

“The whole history of French Vogue is one of back-and-forth with Conde Nast in New York – growing more independent for a while, then being reined back in,” said Sylvie Lecallier, curator of the new exhibition, “Vogue Paris 1920-2020″, which opened this weekend after a year’s delay due to the pandemic.

The Paris edition was often the loftier, more bohemian sibling to its more hard-nosed New York version.

But it was also the hotbed in which much of 20th century style and womenhood came to be defined.

“Paris was the place to hunt out talent and content and bring it to New York,” said Lecallier.

The exhibition charts the evolution from art deco drawings of the 1920s through the erotic image-making of photographers like Helmut Newton in the 1960s and 1970s.

Its last peak was under editor Carine Roitfeld in the 2000s, who brought back a provocative Gallic identity by ridding the newsroom of foreign staff and becoming a fashion icon in her own right.

Her successor, Alt, was a quieter presence, though she still oversaw key moments including its first transgender cover star, Brazilian Valentina Sampaio, in 2017.

But internet culture has created “a perfect storm” for Vogue, says media expert Douglas McCabe of Enders Analysis.

“The first 80 years of Vogue’s life, it had the market to itself, it was the bible for fashion,” McCabe told AFP.

“But online today, there are so many other ways to get your information. Influencers, Instagram, YouTube — everyone’s a threat.”

In a world where new fashion trends can blow up around the world in seconds, it has become much harder for a monthly magazine to set the pace.

“It’s not that they can’t survive for another 100 years — but they will be differently sized,” McCabe said.

Vogue has tried to branch out into different areas, including events.

“I used to work for a magazine, and today I work for a brand,” Alt said on the eve of French Vogue’s 1,000th issue in 2019.

But the big money was always in print, and Vogue Paris sales are dropping steadily from 98,345 in 2017 to 81,962 to 2020, according to data site ACPM.

It is perhaps unsurprising that the new top job in Paris, redefined as “head of editorial content”, went to Eugenie Trochu, who was key to building the magazine’s online presence.

She declared herself “thrilled to be part of Vogue’s international transformation”.

For the curator of the exhibition, it is ironic timing.

“We had no idea it would end like this when we started work on the exhibition,” said Lecallier.

“Who knows where it will go from here.”

The exhibition Vogue Paris 1920-2020 is at the Palais Galliera in Paris’ 16th arrondissement. The gallery is open 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday and is closed on Mondays. Tickets for the exhibition are €14 (€12 for concessions and under 18s go free) and must be reserved online in advance. 

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