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ARCHITECTURE

Harbouring architecture in Hamburg

Hamburg’s HafenCity is one of the largest urban redevelopment projects in the world. Sally McGrane tagged along on a walking tour looking at the new architecture on the Elbe.

Harbouring architecture in Hamburg
Photo: HafenCity

On a recent sunny evening, a group of about thirty people have gathered near Hamburg’s port to explore the new HafenCity district, which will nearly double the size of downtown when finished.

With construction about halfway completed after starting in 2003, there is already plenty to see, including the spectacular Elbe Philharmonic rising steadily atop an old brick warehouse. Horrendously over budget, it is expected to become the northern German city’s new landmark when done in 2012.

For the tour we’re each given an earpiece, so we can listen in as Gerwin Zohlen, an architecture critic from Berlin, and Enrico Santifaller, an architecture journalist and author, both wearing gray suits and proceeding at a stroll while conducting a leisurely conversation about the results, thus far.

“This glass,” says Zohlen, gesturing at a glass-fronted fishbowl residential tower. “Isn’t it an invitation to indecency?”

“Ja,” says Santifaller. With a damning shrug: “It’s design.”

The HafenCity tours, in which two experts lead an hour and half walking tour through the development, with pretzels, wine and a discussion afterwards, began in 2006. There have been between five and seven tours a year since then, and this year’s tour leaders include Tamo Kunz, the set designer for filmmaker Fatih Akin.

They are, say regular attendees, varied, and always interesting. The tours have proven immensely popular, with up to 80 people paying the €8-price of admission. Tonight, the group leaders seem to be mostly in agreement: “Is it pure conservatism to say: I expect a building to have walls?”

“The building gives the impression that it’s floating. The question is: Do I want to live in a house that floats?”

We come to a stop in front of a completed building that draws less ire.

“There’s nothing here to truly criticize…”

“Still, it’s pretty boring.”

A conversation about the drawbacks of commercial real estate leads to a slight difference of opinion. “You can see it in the architecture—the investors have cut all the details,” says Zohlen.

“Ach, I can’t stand all this ‘evil investor’ talk,” says Santifaller. “These architects walk around, saying, ‘I designed the most beautiful building, but they ruined it.’ Architects know what the limitations are, and they should plan for them.”

Zohlen rolls a cigarette and begins to smoke it.

At one of the main squares, with steps leading down to the water, we stop again. “I find the square and the steps good–ok, a little too big, it could be more intimate,” says Zohlen.

“These lamps are supposed to be cranes,” says Santifaller.

“Oh god, oh god, oh god,”

“Why can’t you just have a normal, nice lamp? That would have been fine, instead of these funny design ones.”

The thoroughly enjoyable banter continues as they group passes through a construction area and almost gets run over by a bus. “This graphic—if you turn them a little, it looks a swastika…”

“The windows look like they’re from Baumarkt…”

“Look at this! The stone façade doesn’t reach the ground”

“Ah! A gap! That’s very embarrassing.”

“The sandstone is nice,”

“But paper thin”

“The public will swallow anything…”

“It’s not the nicest specimen”

“I don’t like this glass façade: I like to touch things and this I don’t want to touch. I know my soul will slide right off.”

“Why can’t you make a building out of wood?”

“I agree.”

As the sun sets and we come to the end of the walk (“You can see right into that bedroom,” “I don’t want people to see into my bedroom!”), the two men wrap up the discussion. “In conclusion,” says Zohlen, “I think HafenCity is, on the whole, very successful.”

“Yes,” agrees Santifaller, as the light on the Elbe turns pink. “It’s comforting to know that we are capable of producing a successful urban space, today.”

More information: The remaining 2010 walks will take place July 14, August 18, August 25, September 1, and September 15. Meet at 6:30 pm at HafenCity InfoCenter im Kesselhaus, Am Sandtorkai 30. Reserve by email at: [email protected]

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CULTURE

8 easy and fun ways to learn more about Germany

One of the most difficult things about moving to a new country is immersing yourself in the culture and history. Here are eight effortless ways to deepen your knowledge of Germany.

8 easy and fun ways to learn more about Germany

Whether you’ve been in the country 10 days or 10 years, there are bound to be some parts of Germany you don’t know as well as others, or gaps in your knowledge about its history and culture. 

From the rich maritime history of northern cities like Hamburg to the vibrant folk traditions in the south, Germany is a diverse and fascinating country, and finding out more about it can be hugely rewarding.

Of course, not everyone has time to pore over endless history books or study the complete works of Goethe – and the good news is, you don’t have to.

Getting to know Germany better can be as easy as strolling through a new city, binge-watching German TV or visiting a fun museum with family and friends.

To get you started, here are eight easy ways to learn more about Germany’s history and culture.

Visit a folk festival 

Regardless of the season, there are endless folk festivals to enjoy all around Germany, and they’re far more than just opportunities to drink beer and eat sausages (although you can definitely do that too). 

From finding out about Riesling wine in the Mosel Valley to Spargel (asparagus) in Beelitz, folk festivals are a great way to dip your toes into regional customs, cuisine and culture and soak up the feelings of local pride. 

Whether it’s a large-scale event like Munich’s Oktoberfest or the Weimar Zwiebelmarkt, or a more intimate gathering like Lübeck Hansafest, most folk festivals are a great way to get a feel for specific regions in Germany. What’s more, you’ll often see local artists on the line-up and local craftspeople selling their wares, most of whom will be happy to chat with you about what they do. 

READ ALSO: 10 unmissable events taking place in Germany in 2024

Take a crash-course in German history

If talk of the Holy Roman Empire or Hanseatic League leaves you scratching your head, you may want to find a fun way to brush up your knowledge of German history.

For those who are short on time, there are few better options for doing so than the Deutschlandmuseum in Berlin. This new addition to the capital’s museum scene is located just a stone’s throw from Potsdamer Platz and the Mall of Berlin and promises to take visitors on a whirlwind tour through 2,000 years of German history.

Deutschlandmuseum Berlin

Visitors learn about the Ancient period deep in the midst of the forest at the Deutschlandmuseum in Berlin. Photo: David Weyand CC BY-ND 4.0

Starting in the ancient world and ending in the present day, the Deutschlandmuseum covers 12 major epochs, including the Reformation, Englightenment, Hilter’s Third Reich and the post-war division of Germany.

Along the way, you can test your knowledge with pop quizzes, but the sights and sounds of each fascinating era are what truly makes the experience memorable. 

The whole thing can be done in a single hour, though the atmospheric scenery and interactive exhibits that transport you back in time may inspire you to linger a little longer. 

Make a German music playlist

For a little hit of German culture on the go, why not make a playlist full of Germany’s top artists and listen to it while travelling or doing chores at home?

If you’re stuck for inspiration, music streaming services like Spotify, Apple Music and YouTube have some ready made playlists you can nick ideas from, or even just listen to in their entirety to discover your new favourite German artists. 

This extensive playlist on Spotify, made by user Loki, covers hundreds of tracks and organises German music into different genres, so whether you’re into electro-pop, techno or hip hop, you’re bound to find what you’re looking for. 

READ ALSO: Why are people in German-speaking countries so obsessed with Schlager music?

Go on a walking tour 

It may sound like something only tourists do, but taking a walking tour either in your own city or elsewhere can open your eyes to new aspects of German culture and history you may not have known about before.

Prince Albert in Coburg, Bavaria

Tourists look at a statue of Prince Albert in Coburg, Bavaria, as part of a walking tour. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Pia Bayer

Though history tours are often the most popular, you can find endless options to suit your interests, from vineyard and local restaurant tours to vintage clothing stores, graffiti and street art.

Websites like GetYourGuide and Airbnb are good places to start looking for tours in your area, but if there’s something specific you’re interested in, you can always Google it and see what comes up. 

Join a weekly Stammtisch 

This one will depend a lot on where you live, but if you’re in a city, joining a regular Stammtisch can be a great way to meet new people, improve your German skills and generally get an insight into life in Germany.

If you’re not familiar with the term, a Stammtisch is an informal gathering, usually at a bar or restaurant, with a group of people who meet up on a regular basis. The name itself refers to the table people sit at, with ‘Stamm’ referring to the regular guests at the establishment. In other words, the Stammtisch is the regular table reserved for this group (traditionally at least!). 

READ ALSO: What you should know about Austria and Germany’s ‘Stammtisch’ tradition

There are many different types of Stammtisch, with some dealing with specific topics like politics or sport, and others simply acting as an opportunity to meet people. Whichever one you decide to go to, what easier way could there be to learn about German culture than gathering in a warm Kneipe and enjoying a cold beer? 

Binge-watch German cinema 

From cult classics like Metropolis and Good Bye Lenin to international breakthroughs like Toni Erdmann, Germany has produced some brilliant films over the years.

So whether your goal is to learn more about German history or simply enjoy some high-quality cinema, enjoying a movie night at home is a fun and effortless way to get to know Germany better. Most popular films have English subtitles or dubbing, so language should be no barrier. 

Good Bye Lenin props

Authentic GDR-era props are prepared on the set of the cult film Good Bye Lenin in Berlin Friedrichshain. Photo: picture alliance / Jens Kalaene/dpa-Zentralbild/dpa | Jens Kalaene

Of course, there are also plenty of film festivals that run around the country, most famously the Berlinale, which runs for around two weeks in February. Though Berlin’s film fest is a celebration of international cinema, there are always a few German films in the programme, so keep an eye out for those if you want extra brownie points. 

If you’re looking for something to binge watch, there are plenty of entertaining German TV shows you can find on streaming services like Netflix or on broadcasters ARD and ZDF.

It doesn’t have to be high-brow, either: you can learn plenty about German society and life by finding your new fave reality TV show, and we’ve got the ultimate list here:

The five weirdest and best reality TV shows for improving your German

Sample local food and drinks

This one’s fairly obvious, but going to a nice local restaurant while travelling in Germany, or a local farmers’ market or food festival, can teach you a lot about Germany.

Whether it’s sipping an Apfelwein while eating potatoes in green sauce in Frankfurt or tucking into a Störtebecker beer and Labskaus in Hamburg, there’s huge variety in Germany’s regional cuisine – and often a fascinating tale behind every dish. 

A sign for Spargel in Schleswig-Holstein

A sign for German white asparagus (Spargal) on an old farmers’ cart in Schleswig-Holstein. Photo: picture alliance/dpa | Axel Heimken

Alternatively, finding out more about local dishes online and even trying your hand at preparing a few is a great hack for feeling well integrated.

READ ALSO: The foods you have to try while visiting Hamburg

Immerse yourself in German literature 

This is one for the bookworms (or Leseratten – reading rats – as the case may be): tucking into a German novel can teach you loads about the German way of life, the country’s complex history and the thoughts and ideas that have shaped Germany today. 

Admittedly, not all of the classics are light bedroom reading – The Tin Drum by Günther Grass is notoriously lengthy – but there are plenty of shorter novels that are a perfect jumping off point.

Thomas Mann’s novella, Death in Venice, is one of them, and The Reader by Bernhard Schlink is another, but you can always check out our top 10 recommendations for more inspiration:

10 German books you have to read before you die

Have you got any tips for an easy way to learn more about Germany’s culture, language and history? Get in touch and let us know. 

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