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MUSEUMS

Stockholm photography museum thrills Leibovitz

A new museum on Stockholm's waterfront has created a buzz among the world's best photographers. Claire Hardman found Annie Leibovitz, the world's most revered photographer, was among those to be won over.

On the Slussen waterfront sits Stockholm’s newest museum, Fotografiska, one of the world’s largest museums dedicated to cotemporary photography. Fotografiska opens with four remarkable and diverse exhibitions including one from the world’s most revered living photographers, Annie Leibovitz.

The museum, which opened on Thursday, has already caused a lot of interest worldwide.

“There was a lot of talk about the museum before I got here,” Leibovitz said at Thursday’s opening. “In New York and London – there was a lot of excitement within the photographic community about the museum’s opening.”

“Annie Leibovitz: A Photographers Life, 1990 – 2005” is a collection of over 190 photographs and displays some of the world’s most iconic portraiture featuring personalities including Bill Clinton, Mick Jagger, and Demi Moore.

The exhibition also comprises scenes from her private life – the death of her father and partner and the birth of her three daughters. This is juxtaposed with her reportage from the Sarajevo conflict as well as landscape photography from the USA and Jordan. 

Leibovitz, who has so heavily influenced popular culture for the last 40 years and has been exhibited extensively throughout the world, sees her work as a unified whole.

“I don’t have two lives,” Leibovitz says. “This is one life, and the personal pictures and the assignment work are all part of it.”

Another of the exhibiting artists is Swedish photographer Lennart Nilsson. In 1953 Nilsson started work on a project that would go on to become one of the century’s most important reportages. “A Child is Born” showcases 30 large format photographs that employed endoscopic and electron microscopes to capture an embryo forming inside the womb.

Life, the magazine in which the series of photographs appeared in 1965, sold all 8 million pressed copies featuring the reportage.

Not for the faint hearted is Joel-Peter Witkin’s “Bodies” exhibition. The photographer takes pictures often using elaborate sets, models and cadavers, juxtaposing the grotesqueness and the beauty of the human form. The controversial artist’s exhibition displays 29 captivating works from the last 20 years.

“The Birthday Party” is an exhibition by Australian-born, Paris based photographer, Vee Speers. Her collection is a series of theatrical photographs of children playing dress-ups on their way to an imaginary birthday party.

Speers says the idea came from wanting to catch a few moments of her daughter before she grew up. It then became part of a bigger series.

“A world run by children, not adults – an anarchic world threaded together by an imaginary party,” Speers says.

The museum is located in a newly renovated Art Nouveau building designed by Ferdinand Boberg in 1906. An old customs house, the culturally preserved building forms a beautiful setting for the new museum, a fact not missed by the artists.

“I live in Paris and there’s really nothing compared to this kind of space you have here,” says Speers.” It’s fresh and open and very modern.

Fotografiska will not only be home to world-class exhibitions, but also hosts an academy which will provide seminars and courses for a range of skill levels from the budding photographer to the seasoned professional. The museum also houses a restaurant, shop and commercial gallery.

Entry is 95 SEK for adults, 70 SEK for students and seniors and is free for children under 12. The museum is found at Stora Tullhuset, Stadsgårdshamnen 22, Stockholm. Opening hours are 10am until 9pm daily.

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MADRID

Spain’s scrap cathedral: A monk’s 60-year self-build labour of faith and devotion

About 20 km east of Madrid, in the small town of Mejorada del Campo, stands a building that testifies to a former monk's lifetime of devotion to the Catholic faith. Paul Burge explores the Don Justo Cathedral, a religious edifice like no other.

Spain's scrap cathedral: A monk's 60-year self-build labour of faith and devotion
Don Justo's Cathedral in Mejorada del Campo, Madrid. Photos: Paul Burge

The structure has been built by 95-year-old former monk, Don Justo Gallego Martinez, using nothing but recycled, scavenged and donated materials giving the building chaotic, eclectic and perplexing, if not impressive style.


Don Justo pictured here at the age of 73 in August 1999. Archive photo: AFP

Visitors are free to explore, stepping over bags of cement, buckets and tools which are strewn across the two-floor monument. Downstairs there is a shrine to Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary. Chillingly Don Justo has already also dug his own grave in the basement, where he will finally be laid to rest at the heart of his labour of faith and devotion.

Don Justo, as he is known, is 95 years old. The cathedral still needs at least ten years' work, years that its creator simply doesn’t have. Yet, such is his devotion that he still works on its construction every day, except on Sundays of course. You may catch a glimpse of him in his dusty blue overalls, white shirt and trademark red beret. But as the notices pinned to the wall advise, he is not open to speaking to members of the public.

What inspired Don Justo to build it?

After eight years in a Trappist order at Soria‘s Santa Maria de la Huerta monastery, Don Justo Gallego Martinez was ordered to leave, for fear of infecting the other monks with tuberculosis that he had been diagnosed with.

When his mother died in 1963 and bequeathed to him a large plot of land, including an olive grove in the center of the town, Gallego had an idea. If he would never again be allowed to enter a Catholic church as an ordained member of the faith, then he would express his devotion in a magnificent way. He would build his own church. In fact he would build his own Cathedral from scratch and make a shrine to “Our Lady of the Pillar”, or Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

The future of the cathedral

Set amongst monotonous 1960s apartment blocks, the frame of the huge structure, with its 50-meter-tall dome modeled on St. Peter’s in Rome, towers over the town of Mejorada del Campo. Like the cathedrals of old, it will not reach completion during Don Justo’s lifetime.

What will happen to the building after Gallego’s death remains an open question and its future is uncertain. No one has yet stepped up to take over the project, nor is his cathedral recognized by the Catholic Church. What is more, Don Justo never applied for planning permission to build the cathedral and the structure does not conform to any building regulations.

There are rumous that it could be pulled down after Don Justo passes away but there is a concerted campaign to preserve it.

How to get there

Catedral de Justo is located in Mejorada del Campo, a small town just 20km from Madrid. To get there, there are two public buses from the centre: Avenida de América (line 282) and Conde de Casal (line 341). 

The bus stop in Mejorada del Campo is called Calle de Arquitecto Antoni Gaudí and is located right in front of the cathedral. However, going by car is a better option, so you can continue your day-trip to Alcalá de Heneres, Cervantes’ hometown, which is about half an hour away.

Listen to the When in Spain podcast episode for an audio tour around the cathedral with Paul Burge. HERE

Paul Burge is a former BBC journalist who moved from Oxford, UK to Madrid in 2013 where he now hosts the highly entertaining When in Spain a weekly podcast show about life in Madrid and beyond.  Follow Paul's observations and advice about living in Spain on FacebookInstagram, Twitter and his new YouTube channel.

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