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FASHION

Berlin versus Düsseldorf: Germany’s fashion face-off

Berlin has become a hotbed for young designers in recent years – even if it still can’t contend with the likes of Paris, Milan or London. But has it ousted Düsseldorf as Germany’s fashion mecca? Laura Schweiger investigates.

Berlin versus Düsseldorf: Germany’s fashion face-off
Photo: DPA

Over the next seven days, Germany’s two leading fashion centres will once again face off for attention. Düsseldorf’s established CPD trade fair will sashay into town on Sunday just as Berlin’s fashion week – starting Wednesday – is wrapping up.

It’s a stylistic rumble pitting poor hip young things against cash-rich couture ladies that normally exists within the world’s fashion capitals, but in Germany the divide has taken on a geographic dimension.

Considered a cheap and creative place to live, Berlin has enjoyed a fashion renaissance as of late, as new designers flock to the city. But fashion can’t survive without money and well-heeled Düsseldorf remains a stronghold in Germany for high-priced fashion. So which city is the country’s true capital of chic?

“Before the war, Berlin was brilliant for fashion,” explains Mara Michel, manager of the Association of German Fashion and Textile Designers. “But then it was truncated and fashion was dispersed to several cities, like Munich, Cologne and Düsseldorf.”

Berlin back in vogue

But Berlin has recouped some of its stylistic pull recently. In addition to attracting young designers with low rents for ateliers amid a backdrop of inspiring big-city diversity, the German capital also manages to generate significant media buzz with major fashion events like this week’s Premium trade show and the Mercedes-Benz sponsored Berlin Fashion Week.

“Berlin has to do the shows to maintain its footing in the fashion world,” says Michel. “People go to Berlin to see the highlights, to see the flash.”

But Albert Eickhoff, founder of Düsseldorf’s Eickhoff department store, which carries classy Dior, Lanvin and dozens of other priced-to-die designer collections, thinks Berlin’s fashion status is overblown.

“Yes, the media goes to the shows in Berlin. But the media doesn’t buy anything,” remarks the 71-year-old luxury fashion retailer. “Düsseldorf’s CPD is more important than Berlin Fashion Week, because the dealers with buying power go to the CPD.”

And even Michel agrees that Düsseldorf is where the fashion industry in Germany sees the money. “It doesn’t have the big shows, but it’s where profits are made,” she says. “It’s commercial.”

Design trumps labels

But while the city nestled along the Rhine wins the financial battle hands down, it’s Berlin that steals the style spotlight when it comes to design. One of the city’s most talked-about labels is c-neeon, the brainchild of design team Clara Leskovar and Doreen Schulz. Their clothes are colourful, edgy and unmistakably Berlin.

Schulz herself thinks c-neeon’s clothes, often characterised by cuts and prints happily at odds with each other, are perfectly suited to a city that places less emphasis on brands.

“There’s no uniform,” she says about style in the German capital. “And what people wear doesn’t all have to be from us, for example – maybe just one scarf or another piece.”

This mix-and-match, more humble approach to fashion is a far cry from the luxury logo looks that can be spotted walking down the Düsseldorf’s style mile the Köngisallee on a weekend afternoon. Burberry scarves and Louis Vuitton purses seem to be a dime a dozen and swarms of elderly couture ladies have given the city a somewhat dated fashion reputation. But compared to Berlin, even younger Düsseldorf residents appear to be particularly brand-conscious consumers.

However, Michel doesn’t chalk up the noticeable lack of buzz surrounding Düsseldorf labels to a particular design deficit in the city. Berlin might attract new young talent, but as Michel points out, its designers didn’t all necessarily learn their craft there.

“There are about 85 fashion schools in Germany,” she says. “Twenty are very good and one of the best is actually in Trier.”

She suggests instead of trying to outdo each other, Berlin and Düsseldorf need to team up for the good of German fashion. The quirky and distinct clothing confections on Berlin’s catwalks may make the front page of the style section, but it’s the money in Düsseldorf that will keep them there.

“The cities complete each other,” says Michel. “The only mistake would be for them to compete with one another.”

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BERLIN

EXPLAINED: Berlin’s latest Covid rules

In response to rapidly rising Covid-19 infection rates, the Berlin Senate has introduced stricter rules, which came into force on Saturday, November 27th. Here's what you need to know.

A sign in front of a waxing studio in Berlin indicates the rule of the 2G system
A sign in front of a waxing studio indicates the rule of the 2G system with access only for fully vaccinated people and those who can show proof of recovery from Covid-19 as restrictions tighten in Berlin. STEFANIE LOOS / AFP

The Senate agreed on the tougher restrictions on Tuesday, November 23rd with the goal of reducing contacts and mobility, according to State Secretary of Health Martin Matz (SPD).

He explained after the meeting that these measures should slow the increase in Covid-19 infection rates, which was important as “the situation had, unfortunately, deteriorated over the past weeks”, according to media reports.

READ ALSO: Tougher Covid measures needed to stop 100,000 more deaths, warns top German virologist

Essentially, the new rules exclude from much of public life anyone who cannot show proof of vaccination or recovery from Covid-19. You’ll find more details of how different sectors are affected below.

Shops
If you haven’t been vaccinated or recovered (2G – geimpft (vaccinated) or genesen (recovered)) from Covid-19, then you can only go into shops for essential supplies, i.e. food shopping in supermarkets or to drugstores and pharmacies.

Many – but not all – of the rules for shopping are the same as those passed in the neighbouring state of Brandenburg in order to avoid promoting ‘shopping tourism’ with different restrictions in different states.

Leisure
2G applies here, too, as well as the requirement to wear a mask with most places now no longer accepting a negative test for entry. Only minors are exempt from this requirement.

Sport, culture, clubs
Indoor sports halls will off-limits to anyone who hasn’t  been vaccinated or can’t show proof of recovery from Covid-19. 2G is also in force for cultural events, such as plays and concerts, where there’s also a requirement to wear a mask. 

In places where mask-wearing isn’t possible, such as dance clubs, then a negative test and social distancing are required (capacity is capped at 50 percent of the maximum).

Restaurants, bars, pubs (indoors)
You have to wear a mask in all of these places when you come in, leave or move around. You can only take your mask off while you’re sat down. 2G rules also apply here.

Hotels and other types of accommodation 
Restrictions are tougher here, too, with 2G now in force. This means that unvaccinated people can no longer get a room, even if they have a negative test.

Hairdressers
For close-contact services, such as hairdressers and beauticians, it’s up to the service providers themselves to decide whether they require customers to wear masks or a negative test.

Football matches and other large-scale events
Rules have changed here, too. From December 1st, capacity will be limited to 5,000 people plus 50 percent of the total potential stadium or arena capacity. And only those who’ve been vaccinated or have recovered from Covid-19 will be allowed in. Masks are also compulsory.

For the Olympic Stadium, this means capacity will be capped at 42,000 spectators and 16,000 for the Alte Försterei stadium. 

Transport
3G rules – ie vaccinated, recovered or a negative test – still apply on the U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams and buses in Berlin. It was not possible to tighten restrictions, Matz said, as the regulations were issued at national level.

According to the German Act on the Prevention and Control of Infectious Diseases, people have to wear a surgical mask or an FFP2 mask  on public transport.

Christmas markets
The Senate currently has no plans to cancel the capital’s Christmas markets, some of which have been open since Monday. 

According to Matz, 2G rules apply and wearing a mask is compulsory.

Schools and day-care
Pupils will still have to take Covid tests three times a week and, in classes where there are at least two children who test positive in the rapid antigen tests, then tests should be carried out daily for a week.  

Unlike in Brandenburg, there are currently no plans to move away from face-to-face teaching. The child-friendly ‘lollipop’ Covid tests will be made compulsory in day-care centres and parents will be required to confirm that the tests have been carried out. Day-care staff have to document the results.

What about vaccination centres?
Berlin wants to expand these and set up new ones, according to Matz. A new vaccination centre should open in the Ring centre at the end of the week and 50 soldiers from the German army have been helping at the vaccination centre at the Exhibition Centre each day since last week.

The capacity in the new vaccination centre in the Lindencenter in Lichtenberg is expected to be doubled. There are also additional vaccination appointments so that people can get their jabs more quickly. Currently, all appointments are fully booked well into the new year.

 

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