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CULTURE

Why Berlin needs David Bowie and not a polar bear

As the departure of Berlin's world famous polar bear Knut appears imminent, Roger Boyes, correspondent for British daily The Times, muses why the German capital needs more Bowie and less bear.

Why Berlin needs David Bowie and not a polar bear
The Thin White Duke does his thing. Photo: DPA

It’s easy to see why Berlin zoo bosses are so ready to send their furry star Knut into exile to another animal jail somewhere in Germany or abroad. He is, after all, just a single bear and the point of a zoo is to represent the multiplicity of species. But naturally I support those who want to keep him in town.

The reason is simple. The universality of Knut’s story – rejected by mother, saved by the love of humans – has helped re-brand Berlin. The city has always been irrationally proud of its so-called Schnauze – or gruff and mouthy façade. The urban myth is that underneath this unfriendly exterior every Berliner has a heart of gold.

The problem, of course, is that most foreigners do not stay long enough in the capital – ten or twenty years, say – to discover the buried emotional treasure of the Berliners. So Knut provides a useful narrative short-cut to Schnauze-town, demonstrating Berlin’s capacity if not for love, then at least for collective sentimentality.

In the long, clumsy attempt to find a defining motto for Berlin, the city government – with its underwhelming “Be Berlin” slogan – missed the point entirely. All cities, but Berlin in particular, have to be intelligently branded so that they stick in the global consciousness. That means not rustling up an advertising jingle, but establishing the very essence of a city and communicating it to the outside world.

Knut does this in a way. Overfed, under-stimulated, stubborn and emotionally damaged, the bear can fairly said to be representative of the average Berliner. But is that the whole Berlin story? Of course not. Berlin is also clever, or more precisely full of clever and creatively inspired people. So the task of Klaus Wowereit – who after all, took over the job of cultural commissar – is to find a way of telling the world that Berlin is the brain of Germany, and its creative hub.

It seems to me he has failed to do this and is trying instead to peddle Berlin’s image as a “cool” metropolis at a time when most people – a few clubbers aside – have long since abandoned this interpretation of the city. It is no longer a cutting-edge place. What the city does have is a great attraction for the international cultural elite. Daniel Barenboim and Simon Rattle are classical music titans. The American Academy gives workspace for some of the best US thinkers and writers, novelists of the calibre of Jeffrey Eugenides. And even pop culture icons like the Hollywood director Quentin Tarantino spend months at a time here.

Missing though is a sense of all these stars inter-acting with the city. We know that Brad Pitt talks with architects here; that the novelists sometimes give readings; and if we want to see Rattle we can buy a ticket to the Berlin Philharmonic. There is, however, no rootedness.

If they bring their children, these cultural elites send them to international schools, ready for the next pit-stop in New York or Milan. These people are in Berlin but not of it. They do their job here, are photographed and applauded, and then leave. The task of a culture supremo – the job that Wowereit has so neglected – is to fuse these people with Berlin, just as he is now trying to fuse Knut with the city.

It is not easy, of course. Cultural talent is nomadic, constantly on the move. But West Berlin of the 1970s succeeded well enough.

I have just read an elegant, short book about David Bowie’s years in Schöneberg from 1976 to 1977. “Heroes” by Tobias Rüther is full of anecdotes – for example, how Iggy Pop, Bowie’s flatmate in their Hauptstrasse apartment, stole his fellow rock star’s fancy food purchases from the city’s ritzy KaDeWe department store out of the unguarded fridge. The book manages to capture some of the charm of the times.

It describes Bowie’s breakfasts in the local gay pub Anderes Ufer (coffee and Gitanes, naturally), as well as his daily ride on a Raleigh bike to the Hansa recording studios near the Berlin Wall.

The rock stars who lived here during those years, more or less anonymously, produced Berlin albums, Berlin songs – a Berlin sound – because they became part of the city. It was not just a convenient or cheap place to produce a record (or a film, book or painting) and then move on. Bowie spent days at Die Brücke expressionist museum, thought about politics and built his ideas into his work.

Isn’t that what we should be aiming at? Making Berlin a global talking point?

This cannot be simply ordered from above, I am aware of that. But if Berlin is to be sold to the world, as a kind of European New York, then it has to keep generating new ideas. What about a Language Academy where authors and their translators could discuss the latest developments? Why not start up comprehensive creative writing programmes at the FU and the Humboldt? Why not give subsidised studio space to painters in return for posters or street art to brighten the city?

None of this need be a threat or a burden to Berliners. The public involvement in the future of the Stadtpalast shows that Berliners really care about the look of their city. And it need not cost a great deal of money, as rebuilding the old Prussian palace will.

But it does need leadership, a capacity to be open to new ideas, and a certain energy. Sadly these are the qualities that appear to be currently missing from the Berlin political class.

For more Roger Boyes, check out his website here.

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Eight amazing German museums to explore this spring

With thousands of years of history in Germany to explore, you’re never going to run out of museums to scratch the itch to learn about and fully experience the world of the past.

Eight amazing German museums to explore this spring

Here are eight of our favourite museums across Germany’s 16 states for you to discover for yourself. 

Arche Nebra

Nebra, Saxony-Anhalt

One day, around 1600 BCE, local Bronze Age peoples buried one of their most precious objects – the Nebra Sky Disk, a copper, gold, and bronze disk that acted as a calendar to help them plant crops. This was a matter of life and death at the time. 

Over three thousand years later, in 1999, it was uncovered by black market treasure hunters, becoming Germany’s most significant archaeological find. 

While the Sky Disk itself is kept in the (really very good)  State Museum of Pre- and Early History in nearby Halle, the site of the discovery is marked by the Arche Nebra, a museum explaining prehistoric astronomy and the cultural practices of the people who made it. 

Kids will love the planetarium, explaining how the disk was used. 

Atomkeller Museum

Halgerloch, Baden-Württemberg

From the distant to the very recent past – in this case, the Nazi atomic weapons programme. Even as defeat loomed, Nazi scientists such as Werner Heisenberg were trying to develop a nuclear bomb. 

While this mainly took place in Berlin, an old beer cellar under the town of Halgerloch, south of Stuttgart, was commandeered as the site of a prototype fission reactor. 

A squad of American soldiers captured and dismantled the reactor as the war ended. Still, the site was later turned into a museum documenting German efforts to create a working reactor – one that they could use to develop a bomb.

It’s important to note that you don’t need to be a physicist to understand what they were trying to do here, as the explanatory materials describe the scientist’s efforts in a manner that is easy to understand. 

German National Museum

Nuremberg, Bavaria

Remember that scene at the end of ‘Raiders of the Lost Ark’, where an unnamed government official wheels the Ark of the Covenant into an anonymous government warehouse? This could possibly be the German equivalent – albeit far better presented. 

The German National Museum was created in 1852 as a repository for the cultural history of the German nation – even before the country’s founding. In the intervening 170 years, it’s grown to swallow an entire city block of Nuremberg, covering 60,000 years of history and hundreds of thousands of objects. 

If it relates to the history of Germany since prehistoric times, you’re likely to find it here.

Highlights include several original paintings and etchings by Albrecht Dürer, the mysterious Bronze Age ‘Gold Hats’, one of Europe’s most significant collections of costuming and musical instruments, and a vast display of weapons, armour and firearms. 

European Hansemuseum

Lübeck, Schleswig-Holstein

In the late Middle Ages, the political and economic centre of the world was focused on the North Sea and the Baltic German coasts. 

This was the domain of the Hanseatic League, one of the most powerful trading alliances in human history. Centuries before the Dutch and British East India Companies, they made in-roads to far-flung corners.

The European Hansemuseum in the former Hanseatic city of Lübeck tells the story of the league’s rise and eventual fall, its day-to-day operations, and its enduring legacy.

This museum is fascinating for adults and kids. It uses original artefacts and high-tech interactive elements to tell tales of maritime adventure. Younger visitors will also be enchanted by the museum’s augmented reality phone app that asks them to help solve mysteries. 

Fugger & Welser Adventure Museum

Augsburg, Germany

The Hanseatic League was not the only economic power in the late Middle Ages. The Fugger and Welser families of Augsburg may have been the richest in the world until the 20th century.

From humble beginnings, both families grew to become incredibly powerful moneylenders, funding many of the wars of the 16th century and the conquest of the New World.

The Fugger & Welser Adventure Museum not only explains the rise of both patrician families but also the practices that led to their inconceivable wealth—including, sadly, the start of the Transatlantic slave trade. 

The museum also documents the short-lived Welser colony in Venezuela, which, if it had survived, could have resulted in a very different world history.

This museum has many high tech displays, making it a very exciting experience for moguls of any age.

Teutoburg Forest Museum

Kalkriese, Lower Saxony

Every German child learns this story at some point: One day at the end of summer 9 AD, three legions of the Roman army marched into the Teutoburg forest… and never came out. 

Soldiers sent after the vanished legions discovered that they had been slaughtered to a man.

Arminius, a German who had been raised as a Roman commander, had betrayed the three legions to local Germanic tribes, who ambushed them while marching through the forest. 

Today, the probable site of the battle – we can’t entirely be sure – is marked by a museum called the Varusschlacht Museum (Literally ‘Varus Battle Museum’, named after the loyal Roman commander). 

The highlights here are the finds – made all the more eerie by the knowledge that they were looted and discarded from the legionaries in the hours following the ambush. 

German Romanticism Museum

Frankfurt, Hesse

The Romantic era of art, music and literature is one of Germany’s greatest cultural gifts to the world, encompassing the work of poets such as Goethe and Schiller, composers like Beethoven and artists in the vein of Caspar David Friedrich.

Established in 2021 next to the house where Johann Wolfgang von Goethe was born, the German Romanticism Museum is the world’s largest collection of objects related to the Romantic movement. 

In addition to artefacts from some of the greatest names in German romanticism, in 2024, you’ll find a major exhibition exploring Goethe’s controversial 1774 novel, ‘The Sorrows of Young Werther’, and another on the forest as depicted as dark and dramatic in the art of the period. 

Gutenberg Castle

Haßmersheim, Baden-Württemberg

Sometimes being a smaller castle is a good thing. The relatively small size and location of Guttenburg Castle, above the River Neckar near Heilbronn, protected it from war and damage over eight hundred years – it’s now the best preserved Staufer-era castle in the country.

While the castle is still occupied by the Barons of Gemmingen-Guttenberg, the castle now also contains a museum, that uses the remarkably well-preserved castle interiors to explore centuries of its history – and the individuals that passed through it.

After you’ve explored the museum—and the current exhibition that uses Lego to document life in the Middle Ages —it’s also possible to eat at the castle’s tavern and stay overnight!

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