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FASHION

The Lowdown: Winter clothing

There's a notable chill in the air and it's only going to get nippier over the coming months. This year's autumn has been pretty mild so far, but with snow due in much of Sweden on Saturday, it's time to start wrapping up, writes Jennifer Heape.

The Lowdown: Winter clothing

Whether you are about to face your first Swedish winter, are a snow sports enthusiast, or just looking to update your thermal wardrobe, The Local has sifted through the jargon to bring you a basic guide to staying toasty as the freeze sets in.

Layers

The most vital element to coping with cold weather is to master the art of layering. By layering clothes, you trap warm air within the material, keeping you well insulated against winter chills.

There are three basic rules to layering your clothing, and the principles are the same whether you are storming down the slopes skiing or just popping out for some milk.

First of all: ‘wicking’. The wicking layer is worn next to the skin and functions to wick (or drain) away moisture from the body. This is important, as moisture that remains within the clothes you are wearing can decrease your thermal insulation by up to 50 per cent.

Basically, for the wicking layer, we are talking about thermal underwear. It might not be the sexiest addition to your wardrobe, but when that Baltic wind comes tearing through the country you’ll be singing its praises.

A common mistake is to only wear a thermal top and to leave your legs with only a pair of trousers. Long-johns or leggings are essential when it gets truly cold.

Tights can also be worn, but they can get a bit uncomfortable after a long day worn under tight trousers and you’ll need to opt for a high denier.

Jeans are surprising cold, so thermal trousers are a must underneath. Also, never wear jeans if there is any possibility of them getting wet – they take ages to dry and will even freeze on you if it’s cold enough.

Another fabric to avoid is cotton. The fabric is a big no-no as a wicking layer, as it retains rather than draws away moisture, leaving you cold, wet, and – most likely – miserable.

Second: the insulating layer. Quite simply, the point here is to keep heat in and the cold out, which is done by trapping warm air between fibres. Some good fabrics for this are fleece, a synthetic material which insulates even when wet and dries quickly; wool, which naturally wicks away moisture; silk and down feathers.

Finally: the protective outer layer. In snow sports terminology, this is often called the ‘outer shell’. This layer should protect against the elements, resisting water, snow and wind, while allowing perspiration to evaporate.

For your outer jacket, check functionality such as hoods, zippers and pockets: these small extras really do help. Depending on what you prefer, you can either opt for a large insulated coat or a lightweight waterproof shell, which can be combined with an insulating inner jacket for when it is particularly cold.

Heads and hands

Proper head wear is key as up to 60 per cent of body heat is lost through the head if left uncovered. As for style or type, that really depends on personal preference, although it’s always recommended to keep your ears warm by donning either a low hat or ear-muffs.

If out in the snow, sunglasses must be worn as the sun’s rays are very strong when reflected off the snow’s surface. Make sure that your shades have 100 percent UV protection. If you are planning on being out for a while, it is prudent to wear sun cream.

For hands, in general mittens tend to be warmer than gloves, but do restrict your ability to do anything other than a very convincing lobster impression. Waterproofing is always a good idea, especially for building snowmen and snowball fights. Adjustable wrists help keep out chilly draughts.

Feet

For winter sports, one pair of light or medium-weight socks is enough, while technical support socks are absolutely worth the extra expense for skiing or snowboarding.

Make sure you don’t make the mistake of wearing several pairs of socks, as while two pairs might be helpful, too many will restrict your circulation and actually make your feet colder.

The Local gets out and about in Stockholm to find out what city folk are wearing as the winter draws in: Photo gallery.

FASHION

Paris exhibition celebrates 100 years of French Vogue

A new exhibition in Paris will tell the story of 100 years of French Vogue - from the post-war 'New Look' of Christian Dior through the sexual liberation of the 1960s to the dangling-cigarette waifs of the 2000s.

French Vogue celebrates 100 years
French Vogue celebrates 100 years. Photo: Thomas Olva/AFP

But as well as celebrating the magazine’s storied history, the exhibit comes at a time of turbulence for the publication.

Just last month, it was confirmed that its editor of 10 years, Emmanuelle Alt, was out and wouldn’t be replaced.

She was not alone.

Looking to cut costs, owner Conde Nast International has axed editors across Europe over the past year, and put international Vogue editions under the direct control of global editorial director, Anna Wintour, in New York.

New York-based Anna Wintour now has overall control of French Vogue. Photo by Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP

Like much of the media industry, Vogue is struggling with tumbling sales and ad revenue in the digital era.

But the latest twist is also part of the endless push and pull between New York and Paris going back to its early days.

“The whole history of French Vogue is one of back-and-forth with Conde Nast in New York – growing more independent for a while, then being reined back in,” said Sylvie Lecallier, curator of the new exhibition, “Vogue Paris 1920-2020″, which opened this weekend after a year’s delay due to the pandemic.

The Paris edition was often the loftier, more bohemian sibling to its more hard-nosed New York version.

But it was also the hotbed in which much of 20th century style and womenhood came to be defined.

“Paris was the place to hunt out talent and content and bring it to New York,” said Lecallier.

The exhibition charts the evolution from art deco drawings of the 1920s through the erotic image-making of photographers like Helmut Newton in the 1960s and 1970s.

Its last peak was under editor Carine Roitfeld in the 2000s, who brought back a provocative Gallic identity by ridding the newsroom of foreign staff and becoming a fashion icon in her own right.

Her successor, Alt, was a quieter presence, though she still oversaw key moments including its first transgender cover star, Brazilian Valentina Sampaio, in 2017.

But internet culture has created “a perfect storm” for Vogue, says media expert Douglas McCabe of Enders Analysis.

“The first 80 years of Vogue’s life, it had the market to itself, it was the bible for fashion,” McCabe told AFP.

“But online today, there are so many other ways to get your information. Influencers, Instagram, YouTube — everyone’s a threat.”

In a world where new fashion trends can blow up around the world in seconds, it has become much harder for a monthly magazine to set the pace.

“It’s not that they can’t survive for another 100 years — but they will be differently sized,” McCabe said.

Vogue has tried to branch out into different areas, including events.

“I used to work for a magazine, and today I work for a brand,” Alt said on the eve of French Vogue’s 1,000th issue in 2019.

But the big money was always in print, and Vogue Paris sales are dropping steadily from 98,345 in 2017 to 81,962 to 2020, according to data site ACPM.

It is perhaps unsurprising that the new top job in Paris, redefined as “head of editorial content”, went to Eugenie Trochu, who was key to building the magazine’s online presence.

She declared herself “thrilled to be part of Vogue’s international transformation”.

For the curator of the exhibition, it is ironic timing.

“We had no idea it would end like this when we started work on the exhibition,” said Lecallier.

“Who knows where it will go from here.”

The exhibition Vogue Paris 1920-2020 is at the Palais Galliera in Paris’ 16th arrondissement. The gallery is open 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday and is closed on Mondays. Tickets for the exhibition are €14 (€12 for concessions and under 18s go free) and must be reserved online in advance. 

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