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TOURISM

The ugliest chairs in Stockholm

David Bartal looks for a place to sit down after a harrowing stroll down one of Stockholm’s main thoroughfares at the height of the tourist season.

The ugliest chairs in Stockholm

If you live in Stockholm and want to test your patience or sanity this week, try walking briskly from the main square at Sergels Torg near Åhlens department store all the way to the picturesque Old City.

It is like trying to swim through a sea of molasses.

The wide boulevard Drottninggatan (Queen Street) is packed solid with humanity, and everyone seems to be standing still, consulting a paper map, taking a photograph, or licking an ice cream cone.

Sweden is closed this week as a workplace. Prime Minister Fredrik Reinfeldt is on vacation, as are many of his ministers. Mona Sahlin, head of the opposition Social Democratic Party is on holiday, as are most people who hold responsible positions in society.

Many small, independent cafes or clothing stores which have only a few employees have a sign in their windows that says, “Semester stängt,” closed for the holiday.

Those few poor souls who remain at their usual work stations have busloads of domestic or foreign tourists to keep them company.

I called Peter Lindqvist, head of the Stockholm Visitors’ Board, to confirm what I already strongly suspected: “Yes, it is a high point right now for tourism,” he said.

“We have cruise ships coming into the city nearly every day.”

Before you start your slow march up Queen Street, you have to cross the intersection at Hamngatan. This is a challenge in itself.

Massive crowds have coagulated on each side of the street listening attentively to Peruvian street musicians dressed in colourful costumes performing on the flute and stringed instruments, amplified by super-powerful loudspeakers.

Regrettably, these musicians seem to have only have only one or two tunes, and they play them year after year.

Every few hundred metres on the broad boulevard, traffic comes to a complete halt, as tourists with belly bags on their tummies and a digital camera hanging by a leather strap stop to enjoy mediocre street entertainment, creating a pedestrian gridlock.

It never ceases to amaze me how people who have spent thousands of euros to travel to Stockholm from Italy, Germany, Russia or Japan will stand spellbound for half an hour, gawking at a performance by a man prancing about with a doll dummy dressed in a tuxedo.

If you for some reason feel compelled to buy a plastic Viking helmet or sword to make your life complete, this street is the place to find it.

Horned helmets in blue-and-gold with attached pig-tails in bright yellow yarn are the latest fashion in head-gear this summer. Visitors who have no intention of buying those helmets like to try them on in order to be immortalized in a photograph.

Pleasant Greek folk music is playing incongruously in a candy store on Queen Street where one can purchase post cards and other tourist necessities. “We sell a lot of objects with moose on them,” the clerk informs me.

For some reason, a surprisingly old-fashioned form of advertisement flourishes on this particular street.

Men, usually immigrants of one flavour or another, stand all day with signboards hanging on their shoulders or mounted on a pole, pointing the way to a certain restaurant or clothing shop.

Earlier today, I stopped to chat with a fellow wearing a red fez cap and a signboard promoting Lebanese food, but he didn’t speak Swedish or English.

If one is looking for exceptional culinary delights, this stretch of Queen Street is probably not the best place to find them.

There are the same type of overpriced coffee shops one finds all over the world, an Italian-Swedish restaurant where you can sample the traditional Swedish “plank steak,” a kebab joint called Klabbes (the name doesn’t sound very appetizing to me but the kebabs are O.K), an English pub with a big selection of beer, and a Mongolian barbeque called Bamboo City, where you can have a Thai lunch buffet, a sort of Asian smorgasbord..

That last-named restaurant has the ugliest outside seating in Stockholm, and maybe in the universe. The plastic chairs are in a revolting fluorescent lime green, gaudy enough to put one off one’s appetite.

Someone, please call the style police!

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TRAVEL NEWS

Why are fewer British tourists visiting Spain this year?

Almost 800,000 fewer UK holidaymakers have visited Spain in 2023 when compared to 2019. What’s behind this big drop?

Why are fewer British tourists visiting Spain this year?

Spain welcomed 12.2 million UK tourists between January and July 2023, 6 percent less when compared to the same period in 2019, according to data released on Monday by Spanish tourism association Turespaña.

This represents a decrease of 793,260 British holidaymakers for Spain so far this year.

Conversely, the number of Italian (+8 percent), Irish (+15.3 percent), Portuguese (+24.8 percent), Dutch (+4 percent) and French tourists (+5 percent) visiting España in 2023 are all above the rates in 2019, the last pre-pandemic year. 

German holidaymakers are together with their British counterparts the two main nationalities showing less interest in coming to Spanish shores.

Britons still represent the biggest tourist group that comes to Spain, but it’s undergoing a slump, with another recent study by Caixabank Research suggesting numbers fell particularly in June 2023 (-12.5 percent of the usual rate). 

READ ALSO: Spain fully booked for summer despite most expensive holiday prices ever

So are some Britons falling out of love with Spain? Are there clear reasons why a holiday on the Spanish coast is on fewer British holiday itineraries?

According to Caixabank Research’s report, the main reasons are “the poor macroeconomic performance of the United Kingdom, the sharp rise in rates and the weakness of the pound”.

This is evidenced in the results of a survey by British market research company Savanta, which found that one in six Britons are not going on a summer holiday this year due to the UK’s cost-of-living crisis.

Practically everything, everywhere has become more expensive, and that includes holidays in Spain: hotel stays are up 44 percent, eating out is 13 percent pricier, and flights are 40 percent more on average. 

READ ALSO: How much more expensive is it to holiday in Spain this summer?

Caixabank stressed that another reason for the drop in British holidaymakers heading to Spain is that those who can afford a holiday abroad are choosing “more competitive markets” such as Turkey, Greece and Portugal. 

And there’s no doubt that the insufferably hot summer that Spain is having, with four heatwaves so far, has also dissuaded many holidaymakers from Blighty from overcooking in the Spanish sun. 

With headlines such as “This area of Spain could become too hot for tourists” or “tourists say it’s too hot to see any sights” featuring in the UK press, budding British holidaymakers are all too aware of the suffocating weather conditions Spain and other Mediterranean countries are enduring. 

Other UK outlets have urged travellers to try out the cooler Spanish north rather than the usual piping hot Costa Blanca and Costa del Sol destinations.

Another UK poll by InsureandGo found that 71 percent of the 2,000+ British respondents thought that parts of Europe such as Spain, Greece and Turkey will be too hot to visit over summer by 2027.

There’s further concern that the introduction in 2024 of the new (and delayed) ETIAS visa for non-EU visitors, which of course now also applies to UK nationals, could further compel British tourists to choose countries to holiday in rather than Spain.

READ MORE: Will British tourists need to pay for a visa waiver to enter Spain?

However, a drop in the number of British holidaymakers may not be all that bad for Spain, even though they did spend over €17 billion on their Spanish vacations in 2022. 

Towns, cities and islands across the country have been grappling with the problem of overtourism and the consequences it has on everything from quality of life for locals to rent prices. 

READ ALSO: ‘Beach closed’ – Fake signs put up in Spain’s Mallorca to dissuade tourists

The overcrowded nature of Spain’s beaches and most beautiful holiday hotspots appears to be one of the reasons why Germans are visiting Spain in far fewer numbers. A recent report in the country’s most read magazine Stern asked “if the dream is over” in their beloved Mallorca.

Spanish authorities are also seeking to overhaul the cheaper holiday package-driven model that dominates many resorts, which includes moving away from the boozy antics of young British and other European revellers.

Fewer tourists who spend more are what Spain is theoretically now looking for, and the rise in American, Japanese and European tourists other than Brits signify less of a dependence on the British market, one which tends to maintain the country’s tourism status quo for better or for worse.

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