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FRANCE

Swedish food aims to knock France off its perch

The Swedish government announced a new vision on Tuesday aiming to knock France off its pedestal and establish Sweden as haute cuisine leader of the world.

Swedish food aims to knock France off its perch
A.M.Kuchling, Simon Summers

“We are going to put Sweden on the world map as a country of good food,” said agriculture minister Eskil Erlandsson.

Erlandsson has concluded that Sweden’s reputation for “food safety, wholesomeness, freshness, simplicity, ethics and culture, animal welfare and respect for the environment,” leaves the country in a good position to challenge the French on their home turf of gastronomy.

Erlandsson is not afraid of incurring the wrath of French president, Nicolas Sarkozy.

“That is something I am happy to do! We usually have differences of opinion with the French in these issues,” he said when laying out the new vision at a press conference on Tuesday.

Erlandsson has based his vision on the findings of an opinion survey that has confirmed that Swedes do indeed like good food. 76 percent of respondents said that “it would be nice to experience good food while on holiday.”

Half of Swedes plan their holidays around a concerted effort to experience culinary delights. Recent changes to the tax system has left Swedes with more take home pay and therefore able to enjoy that little extra when treating themselves to an evening out at a restaurant.

Now the government aims to go one step further and promote the country’s cuisine.

The specifics of the agriculture minister’s new grand vision were conspicuous in their absence at the press conference on Tuesday. Erlandsson instead underlined the raft of initiatives that the government already supports. These include the “New Nordic Food” and “Baltic Sea Culinary Route.”

The government plans in the autumn to gather “interesting people and organisations” to discuss and brain storm for ideas as to how the new vision can be realized.

The agriculture minister himself prefers homely food and game washed down with a cool glass of milk. Some of the homely Swedish dishes that the minister has available to him could include meatballs and potatoes, pickled herring and pancakes.

The Swedish tourism industry is going from strength to strength and an emphasis on the country’s gastronomic delights would surely help to boost this positive trend. Rural areas would stand to benefit from an influx of new jobs in the 236 billion kronor ($39.97 billion) industry.

Some of the current highlights of the Swedish culinary calender could include the three-day Skellefteå food festival starting on August 21st, the “Wilderness Chef of the Year” competition on September 6th in Grythyttan, the Kristinehamn honey festival on September 20th or the Swedish championships in food craftsmanship in Ås, Jämtland on October 15th.

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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