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Sojourning in Schleswig

On her way back from a trip to Denmark, Elise Krentzel makes a worthwhile stop with her family in the northern German town of Schleswig.

Published: 3 June 2008 15:45 CEST
Sojourning in Schleswig
Photo: DPA

Schleswig is one of those German towns that many have passed on the Autobahn without blinking an eye. But driving home from Legoland in Denmark recently, my husband and I decided to make a short stop with our six and half year old, very curious and easily bored, son Florian.

With a day and a half left to our northern European road trip, we were not dissapointed by this little hamlet north of Hamburg on the A7 nestled on an inlet of the Baltic Sea.

Upon entering the leafy and hilly town we drove straight to the grounds of the grandiose Schloss Gottorf for a leisurely stroll outside. Schleswig likes to play up its Viking roots and the exhibition on offer inspired my husband and son to engage in a bit of roleplay as two Norsemen in search of spoils.

As it was nearing lunch time, we opted to make that treasure something to fill our stomachs. We parked our car at the top of the village and then wend our way down the cobblestone pathways towards the Schlei inlet – a Baltic Sea fjord.

We were surprised to find a hodgepodge of architectural styles ranging from old Dutch gabled rooftops to Baltic influenced pitched and thatched roofed dwellings. The colours of the buildings were typically northern: canary yellow, brick red, swatches of dark pine green and deep navy blue. The homes have weathered the centuries well and the town entire town is immaculate.

As we advanced towards the centre we noticed a flurry of activity; people carrying yellow and green flags, others asking passers-by to sign petitions and very friendly women dressed in traditional costume handing out pamphlets, tiny sunflowers in miniature clay pots, packets of seeds and information about gardening.

We inquired what the hullabaloo was all about and were told in perfect English by the eager ladies there that the German state of Schleswig-Holstein was holding its Landesgartenschau in the town.

Not being horticulturists or looking to buy a few outdoor plants, we at first weren’t exactly bowled over. But the women explained that this event was perfect for kids since there was a huge playground, a place for picnics, and hands-on exhibits to make things out of a bevy of natural products.

Pitched on over 140 hectares along the Schlei, the festival – which runs through October 5 – has an idyllic setting. The admission price gets you free tickets to some local museums such as the Viking Museum that good for several months.

We spent the entire day there enjoy a combination of food, music and, of course, gardening related exhibitions.

We hit the festival biggest attraction of all – the fantastic playground – which left us parents with plenty of time to smell the roses literally.

As we were packing up to go, we still hadn’t decided upon lodging for the evening so we visited the local tourist bureau.

We decided to pay a visit to the Ringhotel Waldschlösschen, which is set in a secluded forest. Rather inexpensive for a four star hotel, we paid €125 for two nights including breakfast and an extra bed for our son. Stellar service and a serene atmosphere secured our high opinion of the place.

The next morning before heading home we decided to pay a visit to the area two kilometres outside of Schleswig’s old town centre. There’s Haithabu, a Viking port and trading settlement on the Haddebyer Noor road. Vanquished in the 11th century, there are still semicircular ramparts to be seen. Quite close to the Schloss Gottorf, we ended our Schleswig sojourn where it started.

Getting there:

Schleswig is about an hour north of Hamburg just off the A7 motorway.

For information on Schleswig.

For information on the Landesgartenschau.

For information on Schloss gottorf.

For information on the Ringhotel Waldschlösschen.

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Explore Austria: Mauer, a charming wine-hiking spot on Vienna’s outskirts

Catch the very tail-end of the wine season and autumn foliage in one of the lesser-explored corners of the Austrian capital: Mauer.

Published: 12 November 2021 17:03 CET
Updated: 24 September 2023 08:20 CEST
Explore Austria: Mauer, a charming wine-hiking spot on Vienna’s outskirts
Beautiful views and cosy taverns await you on the edge of Vienna. Photo: Catherine Edwards

Wine-hiking is an autumn must-do in Austria. There’s the official Wine Hiking Day (Weinwandertag) that usually draws in big crowds, but it’s also possible to follow the routes through beautiful scenery and wine taverns on your own.

Mauer in the southwest of Vienna is one of the routes that is mostly frequented by locals.


The footpath takes you through scenic vineyards. Photo: Catherine Edwards

You can reach this part of the 23rd district using Vienna’s public transport, and you have a few options. From the Hietzing station on the U4 line, you can take the tramline 60 or bus 56A. The former will take you either to Mauer’s central square or you can get off earlier at Franz-Asenbauer-Gasse to start the hike. If it’s too early in the day for wine just yet, you could start your day at the small and charming Designo cafe (Geßlgasse 6).

Otherwise, the residential area itself doesn’t have much to see, but keep an eye out as you wander between the taverns later — there are some beautiful buildings.

To start the hike, head west along Franz-Asenbauer Gasse, which will take you up into the vineyards, growing some red wine and Vienna’s specialty Gemischter Satz or ‘field blend’, which as the name suggests is a mixture of different types of grapes.

Photo: Catherine Edwards

The paved road takes a left turn, but the hiking route follows a smaller path further upwards. Here you’ll have magnificent views over the whole of Vienna.

If you stick to the official hiking route (see a map from Weinwandern here) you can keep the whole route under 5 kilometres. But more adventurous types don’t need to feel limited.

You can also follow the Stadtwanderweg 6 route (see a map here) either in full, which will add on a hefty 13 kilometres, or just in part, and venture further into the Mauerwald. If you do this, one spot to aim for is the Schießstätte, a former hunting lodge offering hearty Austrian meals.

EXPLORE AUSTRIA

In any case, you should definitely take a small detour to see the Wotrubakirche, an example of brutalist architecture from the mid-1970s built on a site that was used as a barracks during the Second World War.

Not far from the church is the Pappelteich, a small pond that is not only an important habitat for local flora and fauna, but a popular picnic spot for hikers. Its only water supply is from the rain, and due to climate change the pond has almost dried out in recent years, prompting the city to take action to boost its water supply by adding a permanent pipe.


The church is made up of over 150 concrete blocks. Photo: Catherine Edwards

What you really come to Mauer for, though, are the Heuriger or Viennese wine taverns. 

The most well-known is Edlmoser (Maurer Lange Gasse 123) which has previously been named as the best in Vienna. Note that it’s not open all year so check the website, but in 2021 it should be open between November 5th and 21st, and is also serving the goose that is a popular feature on Viennese menus this time of year.

Tip for translating Heuriger opening times: look for the word ausg’steckt, which is used by those taverns which aren’t open year round. They will also often show that they’re open by attaching a bunch of green twigs to the sign or front door.


Buschenschank Grausenburger. Photo: Catherine Edwards

Also worth visiting are cosy Buschenschank Grausenburger (Maurer Lange Gasse 101a), Heuriger Wiltschko (Wittgensteinstrasse 143 — located near the start of the hiking route, this is a good place to begin your tour) and Heuriger Fuchs-Steinklammer (Jesuitensteig 28).

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