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MUSIC

Barrie Kosky prepares musical feast for Berliners

Barrie Kosky, the enfant terrible of Australia’s theatre scene, talks with David Wroe about his production of Cole Porter’s Kiss Me Kate opening at Berlin’s Komische Oper on Saturday night.

Barrie Kosky prepares musical feast for Berliners
Kosky's production of Wagner in Vienna in 2005. Photo:DPA

Cole Porter’s Broadway smash Kiss Me Kate begins with the song, “Another opening, another show,” in which the singers fret about how getting the opening night to go smoothly is like pulling a rabbit from a hat.

But maverick producer Barrie Kosky, whose own Kiss Me Kate, starring the great stage actress Dagmar Manzel, opens Saturday night at Berlin’s Komische Oper, is feeling comparatively sanguine.

The rehearsals, with a cast of more than 100 singers, actors and dancers, have gone “fantastically” and Kosky, while admitting to nerves, is familiar enough with Berlin audiences to sense they’re going to love it.

Of course, the cast won’t be singing ”Another opening, another show” but, ”Den ersten Arbend, die neue Schau.” For only the second time, Kiss Me Kate has been translated into German.

Kosky is an Australian who was labelled theatre’s enfant terrible in his home country for his frequent tirades against its arts scene, which he has branded myopic, parochial and cliquey.

He feels at home in Berlin and says he has never been more comfortable in a city. As such, he is well suited to the task of bringing Porter´s classic musical to the ears of Berliners.

“There is absolutely no way you can translate Cole Porter’s lyrics into German. The rhyming, the scanning of the words, the ebullient wordplay he has with syllables and poetic devices that are so spectacular – you just can’t do it,” Kosky says.

“So we tried to create something that was as close to the spirit of Cole Porter as possible … The jokes work in German, but they work in different ways.”

Though not usually fan of musicals, Kosky puts Porter among the greatest composers – as good as the 19th century German and Austrian masters Schumann and Schubert.

Kiss Me Kate, which Porter wrote in 1948 and which ran for 1,077 performances on Broadway, is a backstage comedy set amid a shambolic production of Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew. The egotistical director Frank Graham and the diva star Lilli Vanessi (played by Manzel) used to be married. Following a Shakespeare-style string of errors and misunderstandings, they have a blazing fight in the middle of the opening night but, when the dust settles, realise they still love each other madly.

“The first thing that attracts me is that the music is spectacularly good,” Kosky says. It’s just one great song after another. There are very few musicals where you can say that virtually every song is not only humable but a hit.”

That Kosky is a natural iconoclast should be an asset. His irreverence towards more serious German works has got him into trouble in the past, notably in Vienna, where he co-directed the Vienna State Opera from 2001 to 2005.

He was famously booed for his production of Wagner’s Lohengrin by audiences who felt a jealous guardianship of the material and were incensed that Kosky was trashing tradition by, for example, having the King Heinrich in a three-piece, tan suit.

He expects no such preciousness from his Berlin audiences who, he says, have a considerably better sense of humour. “They’re great. Vienna audiences – at least opera audiences – are dreadful. Very arrogant, very conservative and very ignorant.

“But Berlin is super. This is my fifth opera in Berlin and the audiences have been fantastic. I’ve found them to be very aware. And Berlin audiences do have a sense of humour,” he says. “I’ve seen that in my other productions. With Marriage of Figaro they laughed and saw my humour and that’s the same humour that’s in Kiss Me Kate, so hopefully they’ll find it funny.”

Asked about the German sense of humour, Kosky lapses abruptly into his trademark, perilous forthrightness.

“Ever country has humour, but I wouldn’t say comedy was a strong point to German culture. I just wouldn’t. I pretty much think the cliche is true,” he says. “German culture has given us many things in terms of literature, music, philosophy, science, architecture – many wonderful and fantastic things. But I would say internationally renowned comedy is not one of them.”

So how would he characterise their sense of humour?

“Like their food.”

Heavy and stodgy?

“Not what you want to eat very often. I know that’s terrible, but it’s true. I’m being very general here and I’m probably being outrageously incorrect … but what they don’t do well is a kind of ironic comedy,” he says.

“This fantastic thing of irony, slapstick and the absurd…these things seem to be virtually non-existent in the mainstream German comedic circles.”

Accordingly, Kosky has no idea how audiences will react to his production of Kiss Me Kate: “They may sit there in stony cold silence and I could be the only one who finds it funny.”

Then again, Kosky insists that Wagner’s Ring Cycle is funny and is determined, when he produces it in Hannover a couple of years from now, to get ”a few laughs in there”, even if German Wagner fans don’t see the joke.

Kiss Me Kate opens Saturday night at 7 pm and runs until July 26 at Berlin’s Komische Oper, 55-57 Behrenstrasse, Mitte.

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DISCOVER GERMANY

Eight amazing German museums to explore this spring

With thousands of years of history in Germany to explore, you’re never going to run out of museums to scratch the itch to learn about and fully experience the world of the past.

Eight amazing German museums to explore this spring

Here are eight of our favourite museums across Germany’s 16 states for you to discover for yourself. 

Arche Nebra

Nebra, Saxony-Anhalt

One day, around 1600 BCE, local Bronze Age peoples buried one of their most precious objects – the Nebra Sky Disk, a copper, gold, and bronze disk that acted as a calendar to help them plant crops. This was a matter of life and death at the time. 

Over three thousand years later, in 1999, it was uncovered by black market treasure hunters, becoming Germany’s most significant archaeological find. 

While the Sky Disk itself is kept in the (really very good)  State Museum of Pre- and Early History in nearby Halle, the site of the discovery is marked by the Arche Nebra, a museum explaining prehistoric astronomy and the cultural practices of the people who made it. 

Kids will love the planetarium, explaining how the disk was used. 

Atomkeller Museum

Halgerloch, Baden-Württemberg

From the distant to the very recent past – in this case, the Nazi atomic weapons programme. Even as defeat loomed, Nazi scientists such as Werner Heisenberg were trying to develop a nuclear bomb. 

While this mainly took place in Berlin, an old beer cellar under the town of Halgerloch, south of Stuttgart, was commandeered as the site of a prototype fission reactor. 

A squad of American soldiers captured and dismantled the reactor as the war ended. Still, the site was later turned into a museum documenting German efforts to create a working reactor – one that they could use to develop a bomb.

It’s important to note that you don’t need to be a physicist to understand what they were trying to do here, as the explanatory materials describe the scientist’s efforts in a manner that is easy to understand. 

German National Museum

Nuremberg, Bavaria

Remember that scene at the end of ‘Raiders of the Lost Ark’, where an unnamed government official wheels the Ark of the Covenant into an anonymous government warehouse? This could possibly be the German equivalent – albeit far better presented. 

The German National Museum was created in 1852 as a repository for the cultural history of the German nation – even before the country’s founding. In the intervening 170 years, it’s grown to swallow an entire city block of Nuremberg, covering 60,000 years of history and hundreds of thousands of objects. 

If it relates to the history of Germany since prehistoric times, you’re likely to find it here.

Highlights include several original paintings and etchings by Albrecht Dürer, the mysterious Bronze Age ‘Gold Hats’, one of Europe’s most significant collections of costuming and musical instruments, and a vast display of weapons, armour and firearms. 

European Hansemuseum

Lübeck, Schleswig-Holstein

In the late Middle Ages, the political and economic centre of the world was focused on the North Sea and the Baltic German coasts. 

This was the domain of the Hanseatic League, one of the most powerful trading alliances in human history. Centuries before the Dutch and British East India Companies, they made in-roads to far-flung corners.

The European Hansemuseum in the former Hanseatic city of Lübeck tells the story of the league’s rise and eventual fall, its day-to-day operations, and its enduring legacy.

This museum is fascinating for adults and kids. It uses original artefacts and high-tech interactive elements to tell tales of maritime adventure. Younger visitors will also be enchanted by the museum’s augmented reality phone app that asks them to help solve mysteries. 

Fugger & Welser Adventure Museum

Augsburg, Germany

The Hanseatic League was not the only economic power in the late Middle Ages. The Fugger and Welser families of Augsburg may have been the richest in the world until the 20th century.

From humble beginnings, both families grew to become incredibly powerful moneylenders, funding many of the wars of the 16th century and the conquest of the New World.

The Fugger & Welser Adventure Museum not only explains the rise of both patrician families but also the practices that led to their inconceivable wealth—including, sadly, the start of the Transatlantic slave trade. 

The museum also documents the short-lived Welser colony in Venezuela, which, if it had survived, could have resulted in a very different world history.

This museum has many high tech displays, making it a very exciting experience for moguls of any age.

Teutoburg Forest Museum

Kalkriese, Lower Saxony

Every German child learns this story at some point: One day at the end of summer 9 AD, three legions of the Roman army marched into the Teutoburg forest… and never came out. 

Soldiers sent after the vanished legions discovered that they had been slaughtered to a man.

Arminius, a German who had been raised as a Roman commander, had betrayed the three legions to local Germanic tribes, who ambushed them while marching through the forest. 

Today, the probable site of the battle – we can’t entirely be sure – is marked by a museum called the Varusschlacht Museum (Literally ‘Varus Battle Museum’, named after the loyal Roman commander). 

The highlights here are the finds – made all the more eerie by the knowledge that they were looted and discarded from the legionaries in the hours following the ambush. 

German Romanticism Museum

Frankfurt, Hesse

The Romantic era of art, music and literature is one of Germany’s greatest cultural gifts to the world, encompassing the work of poets such as Goethe and Schiller, composers like Beethoven and artists in the vein of Caspar David Friedrich.

Established in 2021 next to the house where Johann Wolfgang von Goethe was born, the German Romanticism Museum is the world’s largest collection of objects related to the Romantic movement. 

In addition to artefacts from some of the greatest names in German romanticism, in 2024, you’ll find a major exhibition exploring Goethe’s controversial 1774 novel, ‘The Sorrows of Young Werther’, and another on the forest as depicted as dark and dramatic in the art of the period. 

Gutenberg Castle

Haßmersheim, Baden-Württemberg

Sometimes being a smaller castle is a good thing. The relatively small size and location of Guttenburg Castle, above the River Neckar near Heilbronn, protected it from war and damage over eight hundred years – it’s now the best preserved Staufer-era castle in the country.

While the castle is still occupied by the Barons of Gemmingen-Guttenberg, the castle now also contains a museum, that uses the remarkably well-preserved castle interiors to explore centuries of its history – and the individuals that passed through it.

After you’ve explored the museum—and the current exhibition that uses Lego to document life in the Middle Ages —it’s also possible to eat at the castle’s tavern and stay overnight!

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