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REVIEW

‘You can’t eat when your tongue’s hanging out’

Kathleen Harman takes her overseas guests to some of Stockholm's flashier nightspots, but finds that the sight of tall, blonde women is enough to put her companions right off their food.

Published: 28 September 2007 12:55 CEST

Tipping Point

As a small but generously proportioned brunette, I do sometimes feel like a Shetland pony in a field of Andalusian dancing horses when compared to my tall, slim, blonde, leggy Swedish female peers. For the most part this doesn’t bother me in the slightest, given that the world needs Shetland ponies too, but it was evident on a recent night out that these ladies were interfering with my dining companions’ digestive abilities.

Not that it was the fault of my tall, slim, blonde, leggy Swedish female peers. They were busily going about their evenings out, unaware of the acute discomfort they were causing this particular bunch of international businessmen. From the outset it was obvious that these guys were having great difficulty eating and drinking, hampered by the fact that one cannot perform either of those functions with one’s tongue hanging out of one’s mouth.

Now, it would be unfair to brand these particular gentlemen as chest thumping chauvinists. It was just that they appeared to be completely overwhelmed by the beautiful women of Stockholm – in fact, they concurred, if the blonde one from Abba or even the gorgeous Britt Ekland were to walk into the restaurant there and then, they would go unnoticed amongst the visions of loveliness they found themselves surrounded by that evening.

I just grazed on my salad and let them get on with it, mildly amused at seeing the city from a male visitor’s point of view, even if this particular view was probably trained somewhere around the chest region of every tall, slim, blonde leggy Swedish female in central Stockholm.

We were dining at Grill Ruby, a mid to fairly pricey restaurant in Gamla Stan. It specializes in grilled fish and meat and manages somehow to be both relaxed but ever so slightly flash at the same time, the sort of place where you might want to take someone if you wanted to impress them but not make a big deal out of it…great for relaxed business dinners or potential hot dates.

The tables are quite packed together though, which means that there isn’t a great deal of privacy so if your hot date were to be warming up nicely, you might want to move on elsewhere. But the atmosphere is great in a lively, canteen clattering way and the staff have got to be amongst the best in Stockholm, genuinely welcoming and friendly.

Our steaks were cooked perfectly and my side orders of garlic mushrooms and parmesan sprinked ruccolo salad made for a very tasty nosebag indeed. Starters are around the 130 sek, with the main meal averaging between 250 and 300 sek. The clientele, as well as being visions of loveliness, seemed an animated and happy bunch so all in all, a perfect venue for a Friday night out.

No sooner than dinner was finished, my dining companions were out of their starting gates and heading in the direction of Gondolen at Slussen in order to catch more sights of the stunning sirens of Stockholm. Being stumpy of fetlock, I trotted along as fast as I could, bringing up the rear.

Eriks Gondolen is a restaurant and bar suspended between an office block and the Katarinahissen that conveys guests to their aerial destination. The view is breathtaking and because the bar is so narrow, with huge windows on either side, you really do feel as if you are in a Zeppelin’s gondola.

I could have spent all evening with my nose pressed up against the windows looking out at the twinkly lights, images of the Hindenburg bursting into flames filed firmly away in my subconscious. Rather boringly however, one of my companions decided to have an attack of vertigo at that point, so we were obliged to leave. An attack of vertigo must be a side effect of ogling taller than average women, I mused quietly to myself.

The next stop on our evening extravaganza was Café Opera at Kungstragarden. Now, there is no getting over the fact that you may well have to sell a kidney to fund such a finale to a night out on the tiles but let’s face it, you can manage with one kidney, but life without seeing this place is not a life worth living.

The entry fee to the club is 140 sek, then there’s the cloakroom charge which really gets my proverbial goat, and then there’s the drink that is expensive, even by Stockholm standards. But just go in and pay the entry fee, even if you have to drink the water out of the taps in the toilets for the evening, because it really is that fantastic.

Café Opera is a beautiful establishment full of beautiful people. The decor is jaw droppingly gorgeous, all art nouveau panelling and phantasmagorical chandeliers.

So, what with the dropping jaws and the tongues still hanging out at the sight of a veritable stable of Stockholm’s finest fillies, it was no surprise that my companions had, by this stage, lost the power of speech. This was a relief because the whole ‘tall, slim, blonde, leggy Swedish female’ spotting game had become tedious in the extreme.

And so it was time for me to bid adieu to my companions. As I turned back to see them lurching slightly backwards and forwards, through that heady combination of expensive alcohol and expensive women, I reflected that it was far better to be a Shetland pony than a nodding donkey.

Kathleen Harman

FILM

Five films that shaped the GDR’s legacy – and what east Germans think of them today

Nearing the 30 year anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, we explore how five films compare to the real East Germany and how east Germans feel about these portrayals of their former state.

Published: 25 September 2019 15:49 CEST
Five films that shaped the GDR's legacy - and what east Germans think of them today
In 2017, 'Goodbye Lenin' was screened in Berlin living rooms "ostalgically" designed to look like those in the GDR. Photo: DPA

A generation ago, the East Germans led a peaceful revolution as the Berlin Wall collapsed, and shaping Germany into the country it is today. With the reunification of Germany came the end of the GDR, along with all of its horrors and all of its unique charms.

For the majority of the world, the main means of accessing GDR history and the unique experiences of its population is through art. More specifically: film. 

GDR themed films make up a large chunk of Germany’s most internationally renowned films. The Local spoke with Dr Jochen Staat, a political scientist and GDR specialist at Free University in Berlin, about how these films are thought of in former East German.. 

Goodbye Lenin 

Wolfgang Becker’s ‘tragicomedy’ follows Alex Kerner, a young East Berliner who tries to conceal the fall of the Berlin Wall and the end of the GDR from his staunch communist mother after she wakes up from a coma in order to prevent the shock of the news causing her a second heart attack.

Goodbye Lenin is arguably one of the most iconic German films, with almost every German language student watching the film at least once, or studying it in class. It’s a César winner and it’s both Golden Globe and BAFTA nominated.

The film captures East Germany through the lens of Ostalgie (nostalgia for the GDR) and shows the audience how becoming part of a capitalist Germany wasn’t as easy as putting up Coca Cola banners and opening a Burger King.

According to Staat, Goodbye Lenin was widely well-received by those in the former East Germany because it cleverly creates its own unique world. We don’t see the real East Germany, but rather we see Alex’s East Germany, the country he imagined and dreamed of as a child.

Through the opposing perspectives of Alex and his mother Christiane, we are offered an insight into the differing perceptions of the GDR according to generation, granting an East German audience multiple avenues to connect with Becker’s characters.

Sonnenallee (Sun Alley)

Sonnenallee is a coming of age comedy, released in 1999, about growing up in East Germany. For these “Eastie Boys”, illegal music from the West is an essential aspect of teenage rebellion. 

The question of whether Sonnenalle, a comedy, does justice to the brutality of the East German regime has been up for debate for 20 years. In a review for

Der Spiegel, Marianne Wellershoff stated that the film glorified the GDR and played down the negative aspects of life in East Germany under Erich Honecker.

READ ALSO: Honeckers: the most powerful family in former East Germany. What happened to them?

However, Staat pointed out that the film was well-received by East German viewers, and it is set towards the latter period of the GDR, when the regime was losing control over the population. 

He notes that the character Wuchsel, who lives and (almost) dies by the Rolling Stones, is particularly relatable for a generation of former East Germans, who like him would scour the black market to find copies of records from the West.

Despite its lighthearted approach, there are moments in Sonnenallee that reminds the audience that life in the GDR isn’t all rock music and house parties, such as when Mario, another of the boys, is forced to sign up for military service in order to support his family.

And, when Wuchsel is shot by a border guard, surviving only because the bullet gets lodged in his Rolling Stones LP, it highlights how music really was lifeline for some East German youth.

READ ALSO: How the Stasi failed to silence Rolling Stones fans in East Germany

Das Leben der Anderen (The Lives of Others)

Das Leben der Anderen focuses on the imposing presence of the Stasi in 1980s GDR, as Stasi agent Gerd Wiesler (Ulrich Mühe) spies on a playwright before he becomes increasingly sympathetic to his struggle.

In Western eyes, a film about the horrors of the Stasi and the suffering that took place across East Germany would probably seem more historically accurate than comedies such as Goodbye Lenin and Sonnenallee.

However, Staadt, emphasises that every perception of the GDR is subjective and former East Germans would connect with films that most accurately reflect their experience.

For those who were teenagers when the Wall came down, and lived as the Regime lost its grip on the public, a comedy would potentially be more relatable. However for those who suffered at the hands of the Stasi and experienced the Regime during its earlier and tougher days, Das Leben der Anderen would probably be a harrowing watch that is uncomfortably close to home.

Staat stated that because they are an “easier” watch, it is generally the comedies that are most widely viewed in the former GDR.

Deutschland ’83

Though not a film, Deutschland ’83 is the first German language series to air on a US network and is the most popular foreign language drama in the history of British television. The internationally successful series tells the story of a young East German, Martin Rauch, who is sent to West Germany to spy on behalf of the Stasi’s foreign intelligence agency.

Unlike the other films in this list, Deutschland ’83 doesn't focus particularly on East German life, rather dedicates equal amounts of airtime to both the Western and Eastern sides of the Wall.

Not only does this grant the audience access to both sides of a divided Germany, Staat highlights that viewers also experience varying levels of conflict through the drama. He explained this was key to the programme becoming a “sleeper hit” with viewers across Germany.

Whilst the series is based around political conflict on a wider scale, small-scale familial and personal conflicts plays a large role in the storylines. For example, the AIDS crisis and infidelity are just two of many personal issues to affect the politically-charged characters in the series.

Barbara 

In the 2012 film Barbara, life in rural East Germany is depicted, rather than city life in East Berlin. The title character is a doctor who formerly worked in the prestigious Charité hospital in East Berlin, but is transferred to a rural hospital by the Baltic Sea as a punishment from the State after applying to leave for the West. She is still monitored by the Stasi, even in this small town.

Staat highlights that Barbara’s situation wasn’t unusual for former East Germans, and its one that many from the former East Germany can relate to.

It was an ongoing and increasing problem for the GDR’s economy across its existence that many of its skilled workers were lost to the more-attractive seeming West, if they were willing to go through the tedious but possible process of an “Ausreiseantrag” (an application to leave the GDR).

For those applying to leave, they’d typically face social exclusion and denunciation, much like in Barbara’s experience, both as a punishment and as a deterrent to others. 

What does the future look like for GDR focused films?

By remembering the GDR through iconic, classic films such as Goodbye Lenin, Das Leben der Anderen and Sonnenallee, Staat stated, it means we focus on the latter period of the GDR, the late 70s and 80s when the films were set.

A possible explanation for the tendency to set films in the late GDR is the this is the GDR that directors remember. The directors of these three films either weren’t alive, or were children, during the earlier half of the GDR in the 50s and 60s, when the regime was stricter and life was harder.

Whilst these iconic films are a means of accessing the history of a country that no longer exists, it’s important that we don’t forget the earlier history of the GDR.

There are newer films about the GDR, such as Der Zukunft Zugewandt (Facing the Future), set in 1952, about a woman’s arrival into the young GDR from a Soviet labour camp. Films such as these are bringing the GDR’s earlier days to greater international attention, and could well play a significant role in the future of German cinema. 

 
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