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REVIEW

Eating my way through Sweden’s winter

Tipping Point: Detecting a chill in the air, Kathleen Harman decides it's time to add a layer of blubber. Thankfully, traditional Swedish food is more than up to the job.

Published: 31 August 2007 12:25 CEST

I awoke the other day from what was patently one of those horrible anxiety dreams, to find myself wailing,` But I don’t know where I’ve put my long johns’.

I know what brought it on. It was seeing the funny SL public transport poster in the underground station showing a man in his arctic clothes, standing incongruously on a summery deck, advising customers that we are now on the winter timetable.

I am all confused. Just as the weather had finally turned out nice, here we are back in winter. Are there only two seasons in Sweden? Are autumn and spring seasons that only happen to other people?

Take autumn, for example, which is really most peculiar in Stockholm. One minute all the leaves are on the trees and there‘s a bit of a chill in the air. The next thing you know there’s an overnight dumping of snow which causes all the leaves to fall off immediately, all in one go. It is quite literally ‘Fall‘. So autumn really does take, to all intents and purposes, twenty four hours. Perhaps it isn’t worth naming a bus timetable or a school term after it, after all.

And as for spring, I just get really cross with it, if it is at all possible to be annoyed with a season. It takes so long to come that one might be tempted to make a rude Viagra joke. Let’s just say that by the time those daffodils appear, I am most definitely rolling my eyes and have probably mentally worked my way through an entire year‘s worth of shopping lists while filing my nails and counting the cobwebs on the bedroom ceiling.

But if I am cross with spring, I am just plain fed up with winter. Even the simplest of things become such a palaver. Taking popping round the corner for some milk, for example. I just can’t face putting on all those layers and SS boots just to go two hundred metres down the road. By the time I‘m all set with hats, gloves, scarves and a team of small but sturdy husky dogs, I have either lost the will to live or completely forgotten what it was that I was going out for in the first place. I usually end up telling my offspring that they will just have to make do with tonic water on their cornflakes, a staple that never runs out in my household.

I have started compiling a list of all the things that I really hate about winter. I got off to a flying start with ‘A for Amnesia, as in ‘I have completely forgotten that I own underwear that doesn’t come from a camping shop’ and I am working my way steadily through the alphabet. There are a few blanks, admittedly, but I am particularly proud of ‘Y’ as in ‘You’ve got to be bloody joking’’, reserved especially for those snow blizzards in mid May.

But in the interests of fairness, I have also set up a ’Not Too Bad’ list to counter the alphabet of animosity. It has one entry so far which is ’F for Food’ , because you need lots of it in the cold and the saltier and the fattier the better. One definitely needs a little layer of blubber to get one through the siege that is winter, especially if like me, you can‘t remember where you have put your thermal underwear. And there is no time like the present to start your campaign against the cold.

I have to admit a great fondness for traditional Swedish food and positively the best dish is Stekt Strömming – lovely crispy herring and big dollops of buttery mashed potatoes, which handily for us is probably not the most slimming thing on the menu. Or failing that, a really nice fish soup with lashings of aioli sauce will really set you up for an afternoon of trudging through the sludge.

The best lunch place to go for both of the above is Kajsas Fisk restaurant at Hötorgshallen, the underground food market. If you choose the fish soup (eighty kronor), you can have a free top up. I once saw a man have three bowls and about ten slices of bread. Very impressing, as we like to say in Swinglish. I bet his long johns were a bit snug after that gastronomic extravaganza.

Make sure you have a good browse around the market when you are there, because it is bursting with both excellent produce and character. It is all good stuff but I recommend in particular the fruit loaves from Tråget Bakery, the friendly service at Jackson’s Ost, and the beautiful uniforms of the staff at Österqvist Deli. And the best thing is that it is all underground so it’s a bit like being holed up in a bunker that just happens to be packed with gourmet goodies.

There are worse ways to spend a winter, I suppose.

Kajsas Fisk & Restaurang AB Hötorgshallen 3-6, 11157 Stockholm

Tel: 08 – 20 72 62

Hotorgshallen, Hotorget, Mon – Thurs, 10-18.00, Fri 10-18.30, Sat 10 -16.00.

www.hotorgshallen.se

Kathleen Harman

FILM

Five films that shaped the GDR’s legacy – and what east Germans think of them today

Nearing the 30 year anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, we explore how five films compare to the real East Germany and how east Germans feel about these portrayals of their former state.

Published: 25 September 2019 15:49 CEST
Five films that shaped the GDR's legacy - and what east Germans think of them today
In 2017, 'Goodbye Lenin' was screened in Berlin living rooms "ostalgically" designed to look like those in the GDR. Photo: DPA

A generation ago, the East Germans led a peaceful revolution as the Berlin Wall collapsed, and shaping Germany into the country it is today. With the reunification of Germany came the end of the GDR, along with all of its horrors and all of its unique charms.

For the majority of the world, the main means of accessing GDR history and the unique experiences of its population is through art. More specifically: film. 

GDR themed films make up a large chunk of Germany’s most internationally renowned films. The Local spoke with Dr Jochen Staat, a political scientist and GDR specialist at Free University in Berlin, about how these films are thought of in former East German.. 

Goodbye Lenin 

Wolfgang Becker’s ‘tragicomedy’ follows Alex Kerner, a young East Berliner who tries to conceal the fall of the Berlin Wall and the end of the GDR from his staunch communist mother after she wakes up from a coma in order to prevent the shock of the news causing her a second heart attack.

Goodbye Lenin is arguably one of the most iconic German films, with almost every German language student watching the film at least once, or studying it in class. It’s a César winner and it’s both Golden Globe and BAFTA nominated.

The film captures East Germany through the lens of Ostalgie (nostalgia for the GDR) and shows the audience how becoming part of a capitalist Germany wasn’t as easy as putting up Coca Cola banners and opening a Burger King.

According to Staat, Goodbye Lenin was widely well-received by those in the former East Germany because it cleverly creates its own unique world. We don’t see the real East Germany, but rather we see Alex’s East Germany, the country he imagined and dreamed of as a child.

Through the opposing perspectives of Alex and his mother Christiane, we are offered an insight into the differing perceptions of the GDR according to generation, granting an East German audience multiple avenues to connect with Becker’s characters.

Sonnenallee (Sun Alley)

Sonnenallee is a coming of age comedy, released in 1999, about growing up in East Germany. For these “Eastie Boys”, illegal music from the West is an essential aspect of teenage rebellion. 

The question of whether Sonnenalle, a comedy, does justice to the brutality of the East German regime has been up for debate for 20 years. In a review for

Der Spiegel, Marianne Wellershoff stated that the film glorified the GDR and played down the negative aspects of life in East Germany under Erich Honecker.

READ ALSO: Honeckers: the most powerful family in former East Germany. What happened to them?

However, Staat pointed out that the film was well-received by East German viewers, and it is set towards the latter period of the GDR, when the regime was losing control over the population. 

He notes that the character Wuchsel, who lives and (almost) dies by the Rolling Stones, is particularly relatable for a generation of former East Germans, who like him would scour the black market to find copies of records from the West.

Despite its lighthearted approach, there are moments in Sonnenallee that reminds the audience that life in the GDR isn’t all rock music and house parties, such as when Mario, another of the boys, is forced to sign up for military service in order to support his family.

And, when Wuchsel is shot by a border guard, surviving only because the bullet gets lodged in his Rolling Stones LP, it highlights how music really was lifeline for some East German youth.

READ ALSO: How the Stasi failed to silence Rolling Stones fans in East Germany

Das Leben der Anderen (The Lives of Others)

Das Leben der Anderen focuses on the imposing presence of the Stasi in 1980s GDR, as Stasi agent Gerd Wiesler (Ulrich Mühe) spies on a playwright before he becomes increasingly sympathetic to his struggle.

In Western eyes, a film about the horrors of the Stasi and the suffering that took place across East Germany would probably seem more historically accurate than comedies such as Goodbye Lenin and Sonnenallee.

However, Staadt, emphasises that every perception of the GDR is subjective and former East Germans would connect with films that most accurately reflect their experience.

For those who were teenagers when the Wall came down, and lived as the Regime lost its grip on the public, a comedy would potentially be more relatable. However for those who suffered at the hands of the Stasi and experienced the Regime during its earlier and tougher days, Das Leben der Anderen would probably be a harrowing watch that is uncomfortably close to home.

Staat stated that because they are an “easier” watch, it is generally the comedies that are most widely viewed in the former GDR.

Deutschland ’83

Though not a film, Deutschland ’83 is the first German language series to air on a US network and is the most popular foreign language drama in the history of British television. The internationally successful series tells the story of a young East German, Martin Rauch, who is sent to West Germany to spy on behalf of the Stasi’s foreign intelligence agency.

Unlike the other films in this list, Deutschland ’83 doesn't focus particularly on East German life, rather dedicates equal amounts of airtime to both the Western and Eastern sides of the Wall.

Not only does this grant the audience access to both sides of a divided Germany, Staat highlights that viewers also experience varying levels of conflict through the drama. He explained this was key to the programme becoming a “sleeper hit” with viewers across Germany.

Whilst the series is based around political conflict on a wider scale, small-scale familial and personal conflicts plays a large role in the storylines. For example, the AIDS crisis and infidelity are just two of many personal issues to affect the politically-charged characters in the series.

Barbara 

In the 2012 film Barbara, life in rural East Germany is depicted, rather than city life in East Berlin. The title character is a doctor who formerly worked in the prestigious Charité hospital in East Berlin, but is transferred to a rural hospital by the Baltic Sea as a punishment from the State after applying to leave for the West. She is still monitored by the Stasi, even in this small town.

Staat highlights that Barbara’s situation wasn’t unusual for former East Germans, and its one that many from the former East Germany can relate to.

It was an ongoing and increasing problem for the GDR’s economy across its existence that many of its skilled workers were lost to the more-attractive seeming West, if they were willing to go through the tedious but possible process of an “Ausreiseantrag” (an application to leave the GDR).

For those applying to leave, they’d typically face social exclusion and denunciation, much like in Barbara’s experience, both as a punishment and as a deterrent to others. 

What does the future look like for GDR focused films?

By remembering the GDR through iconic, classic films such as Goodbye Lenin, Das Leben der Anderen and Sonnenallee, Staat stated, it means we focus on the latter period of the GDR, the late 70s and 80s when the films were set.

A possible explanation for the tendency to set films in the late GDR is the this is the GDR that directors remember. The directors of these three films either weren’t alive, or were children, during the earlier half of the GDR in the 50s and 60s, when the regime was stricter and life was harder.

Whilst these iconic films are a means of accessing the history of a country that no longer exists, it’s important that we don’t forget the earlier history of the GDR.

There are newer films about the GDR, such as Der Zukunft Zugewandt (Facing the Future), set in 1952, about a woman’s arrival into the young GDR from a Soviet labour camp. Films such as these are bringing the GDR’s earlier days to greater international attention, and could well play a significant role in the future of German cinema. 

 
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