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LA BELLE VIE

La Belle Vie: Festivals, gastronomy and nature of southern France

From France's most beautiful hidden gem villages to the unique gastronomy, festivals and natural features of southern France, this week's La Belle Vie newsletter offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like a French person.

La Belle Vie: Festivals, gastronomy and nature of southern France
A band plays drums as people gather in front of the town hall during the opening ceremony of the Bayonne festival (Fetes de Bayonne), in Bayonne, soutwestern France on July 26, 2023. (Photo by GAIZKA IROZ / AFP)

La Belle Vie is our regular look at the real culture of France – from language to cuisine, manners to films. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to your newsletter preferences in “My account”.

Every year, France votes on its favourite village in the hit-show Le Village Préféré des Français, and it is a great way to get an insider look at France’s hidden gems.

There are 14 different villages in the running, each showcasing a different French département.

France’s top 14 favourite villages for 2024

There are a few things that mark July in France – from the start of the school holidays (and increased traffic on the roads) to the Fête nationale (Bastille day, or 14 juillet). Of course, you also have the Fêtes de Bayonne.

The festival is a mid-summer staple in France. A five-day celebration in Basque country, there is plenty of music, partying, traditional dances, a famous bull run, and fireworks. If you look at photos of the crowds, you will notice that many festival-goers are wearing the traditional Basque colours of red and white.

5 things to know about France’s Fêtes de Bayonne

Basque identity in France is less visible than in Spain, in part due to its smaller geographical size, as well as a long history of the French government suppressing their language. 

Still, the pays basque has managed to cling to its unique culture over the years, including its own style of cooking. Unlike a lot of other French cuisine, Basque dishes are not afraid of adding a bit of spice, thanks to locally grown espelette peppers.

Do the French really hate all spicy food?

As for the rest of southern France, unsurprisingly you get a lot of seafood along the Mediterranean. The warm weather also lends itself to a near continuous crop of fresh vegetables, making the ratatouille and juicy tomatoes in the Salade Niçoise irresistible.

Other parts of the south are known for heartier dishes, like the Languedoc’s Toulouse sausage or the filling stew that is cassoulet (meant to only be eaten during the winter).

Regional cuisine: What to eat and drink in southern France

Part of southern France is also known as the pays de l’ours (bear country). If you go hiking in the Pyrenees, you will see plenty of stickers on signs and inside cabins warning you that you have now entered the dangerous pays de l’ours. They conveniently forget to tell you that bears almost went extinct in southern France, and reintroduction efforts have yielded an estimated 83 brown bears in the Pyrenees mountains, as of 2024. 

Sorry Frenchies, but I have to disagree. The real pays de l’ours is Alaska, with a grizzly population of over 30,000. 

That being said, I am on alert when I go hiking in the Pyrenees. Not because I am worried about running into a bear, but more-so out of concern for the patou (Pyrenees Mountain dogs). They guard livestock and do not take kindly to hikers (or their dogs) getting too close to the sheep.

Reader question: Do I need to worry about wolves and bears in the French countryside?

And finally, most languages have developed idioms and expressions that were originally inspired by animals. French is no exception.

Like bears, the wolf population in France diminished greatly in the 19th and 20th centuries. But the two predators had many centuries before that to influence French culture, and by extension, expressions. For example, if you are really hungry, you might say j’ai une faim de loup. Basically, it means you are hungry like a wolf and would eat anything put in front of you.

15 everyday French expressions inspired by animals

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LA BELLE VIE

La Belle Vie: Getting into ‘van life’ in France and the truth about August holidays

From the hidden references in the Paris Olympics opening ceremony and renting a campervan and exploring the countryside to whether or not France really shuts down in August, this week's La Belle Vie newsletter offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like a French person.

La Belle Vie: Getting into 'van life' in France and the truth about August holidays

La Belle Vie is our regular look at the real culture of France – from language to cuisine, manners to films. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox, by going to your newsletter preferences in “My account”.

Despite worries that it might be too bold to host an opening ceremony directly along the river Seine, France succeeded and wowed the world with an event that made Olympic history.

I sat in the crowd (under the rain) watching the ceremony from a fan zone at the Chateau de Vincennes. Even though I was not in the stands along the river, it was still emotional to be part of the crowd.

At one point, we looked up and realised we could make out part of the red heart that the Patrouille de France drew in the sky. There were also several audible gasps and clapping when the French pop star Aya Nakamura appeared.

I thoroughly enjoyed the opening ceremony, from the costumes to the dancing and the many hints at French history and culture, though some references were a bit more obscure than others.

How many of the French references did you get in the Olympics opening ceremony?

With all the effort that has gone into cleaning up the Seine – which hopefully will be open for the public to swim in 2025 – I’ve been thinking of France’s other rivers. 

Last autumn, I visited Basel, Switzerland and was amazed by the number of people just floating along the river with their colourful dry bags. Unfortunately, most of France’s major rivers are not safe or clean enough to allow for river-commuting.

Can you swim in France’s major rivers?

Technically, there is no national ban on swimming in rivers or lakes, but local authorities do set up their own restrictions based on safety risks associated with the water or health concerns due to pollution. 

But if you are curious about a body of water nearby, you can actually go directly onto an interactive map created by French health authorities to check the cleanliness of the water. 

MAP: How to check the quality of the bathing water in France’s seas and lakes

This might come in handy if you ever decide to go on a road trip in France, or perhaps if you want to rent a campervan. The Local’s Ben McPartland has joined the ‘van life’ craze, having done it three times with young kids in tow. 

He has put together some of the lessons he has learned along the way, plus the important bits about where to actually drive the campervan in France.

Essential tips for your campervan holiday in France

On the subject of holidays, I’ve noticed that as the month of August rolls around, some variation of the same joke comes up on American-run social media accounts.

It basically goes: “I sent an email to my French colleague, but he said he’s out of the office the entire month of August!” It might be followed by a photo of a beautiful European holiday location.

It is true that large cities such as Paris slow down quite a bit in August, but I don’t know if it’s fair to say the entire country shuts down for four weeks.

Factcheck: Do French people really take off the entire month of August?

If all French people were off on holiday during August, then there would be no concept of the two summer holiday tribes – the Juilletistes and the Aoûtiens.

This decades-old rivalry centres on holiday timing preferences, and it culminates in a very busy weekend for traffic as July ends and August begins.

Juilletistes vs Aoûtiens: Do France’s two summer holiday tribes still exist?

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