SHARE
COPY LINK
For members

OPINION AND ANALYSIS

OPINION: Foreign foods will always be hard to find in Italy – and that’s OK

Italian food is a major part of the draw for Italy's foreign residents, though some find there's a lack of other choices. But Italy is never going to be the kind of globalised country where international dining options are the norm, argues Silvia Marchetti.

OPINION: Foreign foods will always be hard to find in Italy - and that's OK
The Fig restaurant in the village of Santa Domenica Talao is a rare example of a restaurant serving international cuisine in rural Italy. (credits: Jayda Iye)

Globalisation means that even Italians can buy American-style products in its supermarkets such as peanut butter (I’m a fan), tacos, Doritos, and Oreo cookies. However foreigners in Italy often complain that they have a hard time finding American, British and other non-native foods – particularly outside of big cities.

There may be a handful of villages where immigration to the UK occurred which new have bistros and bakeries serving British dishes and foods. But otherwise, non-Italian restaurants such as Mexican, Lebanese and Vietnamese are nowhere to be found in rural, less populated areas.

Milan is one thing but a tiny village in rural Basilicata is entirely different.

Foreigners come to Italy for the great food, but in the long run, particularly for foreign residents always eating the same indigenous cuisine, no matter how divine it is, it can sometimes get boring. Tastebuds get numb after just so many years of eating pizza, amatriciana pasta and lasagne or tortellini.

I never thought any foreigner could get bored of eating Italian cuisine, but I’ve met several people who have and complain about the non-variety of restaurants.

Outside big cities it is hard to find non-Italian food, especially American and Indian for instance. I know several Brits and Americans living in small rural villages in the south who have had enough of the zero availability of other cuisines and are fed up of always eating Italiano.

Ben and Anne Greene, a retired couple from Brighton, relocated to Calabria four years ago where they bought a rural house for less than €40,000 near the village of Cinquefrondi. Given the low prices and cost of living, for the first year they regularly went out for dinner.

“We’ve had more than our fair share of spaghetti with chili peppers and ‘nduja’ (spicy salami) sauce, let alone pizza and all sorts of short pasta”, Anne tells the The Local.

“We love Italian cuisine, and we never thought we would get bored of it, but lately we often really crave what we had back in the UK – that is a wide selection of foreign foods and cuisines.

“We miss having the freedom of opting for Mexican, Indonesian and Indian, around here you can’t even find a real Chinese restaurant unless you drive to the coast.”

In slightly bigger villages near Cinquefrondi there is sometimes a mixed offer of pizza and kebab in bars run by immigrants, but that’s about it, adds her husband.

In Sambuca di Sicilia, for instance, where the one-euro homes frenzy has lured many expats, alongside traditional taverns there’s just one pizzeria that also makes kebab-style food.

While in Mussomeli, another village in Sicily where cheap homes have attracted foreigners, a local restaurant has started to offer pizza and kebab, and also cheesecake. But that’s usually about as ‘varied’ as it gets in small-town Italy when it comes to food.

In rural Calabria however, one American couple recently opened an American restaurant to cater to local clientele and let them discover original American foods such as Cape Cod-style lobster rolls, onion rings and chicken wings.

Shannon Sciarretta and her partner Felipe da Silva launched ‘The Fig’ in the unknown village of Santa Domenica Talao.

Shannon has Italian origins and grew up eating Italian iconic dishes, but when she then spent her university years in Rome, she realised how very little availability there was of other cuisines, even in the Eternal City.

“It just struck me how there’s very little variety available in Italy when it comes to foreign foods or cuisines,” she says.

“So the idea of serving in Italy non-traditional stuff was always on my mind, and when we decided to move to Calabria, we thought it would be great to have locals taste our favourite American dishes because I think cuisine is a means of communication between different cultures”, says Shannon.

In fact, nearly all The Fig’s clientele is native, as villagers have been won over by its US-style cuisine.

I understand how foreigners can get bored eating always the same Italian food, but on the other hand, I am glad that Italy in its entirety is not yet such a globalized, cosmopolitan country where you can find Indonesian or Mexican food anywhere.

We like to stay attached to our local culinary traditions, which I hope will not die out easily.

Member comments

  1. lol, the only food I like is in Italy so i,m pleased they dont have all the rubbish that we eat here in the UK.

  2. We have a flat in Tremezzo on Lake Como and we spend a lot of time there. I’m a very picky eater and can’t eat anything spicy and I don’t care for PASTA ( I know … I’m weird). I have to bring a lot of food with me when I’m going to be there for long periods of time. I agree I’m glad that Italy isn’t as globalized as the rest of the world but it’s a huge problem for me. As an American Texan my favorite food is Mexican so I can get most of what I need to cook it there but it’s definitely a pain ! If we ever decide to live there permanently I’ll have to get a freezer for my garage and continually fill it with food from home…lol. Perhaps I’ll have to open an American style restaurant like was mentioned in the other comments.

  3. I don’t know why people would expect to find an array of international cuisine in a small Calabrian mountain village. At any rate there are at least two Japanese restaurants in the relatively nearby port of Gioia Tauro.

    Personally I’m just grateful that even in the most remote places in Italy, the local cuisine and wine will be fantastic—and cheap. That can’t be said of every small town in America, which these days might only have fast food chains.

  4. It seems to me that these complaining Americans or Brits think that pasta is all there is. Shame. Italian food is nr one in the world and I am so happy to avoid all these mediocre fat burgers with fries or kidney pies. And if I want good Indian stuff, which I like, I can travel elsewhere. Long live the Italian food! (I am from Sweden. We are inferior here, too)

  5. Italian food is far from boring and varies so much from region to region and as a regular visitor to Italy, I am thankful it hasn’t been inundated with food from other cultures. Recently returned from a holiday in Italy and noticed there were more foreign foods on offer since the last visit, especially in Rome. Can only hope they don’t end up overwhelming the cities and towns. Why move to a village knowing there were only Italian restaurants, then complain?

  6. Even sitting in Milan, I must admit being tired of Italian food after a year and half. It’s not necessarily that it’s bland but that it’s fundamentally a very limited palate – carbs, similar flavour profiles, lack of spices. Coming from a Korean background especially, it’s quite bland. To be fair, Turkish, Indian, etc. are much more flavourful to my palate but I suspect inedible to many people here.

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.
For members

OPINION AND ANALYSIS

Why there are so many derelict houses in Italy – and no-one seems to care

From hilltop towns to seafront promenades, many parts of Italy are blighted by dilapidated buildings left to rot under the sun. So why don't local authorities tear them down and sell off the land? Reporter Silvia Marchetti explains.

Why there are so many derelict houses in Italy - and no-one seems to care

As many remote Italian towns are desperate to sell off old abandoned buildings – some do so successfully, others struggle – foreigners are often baffled by the fact that there are still so many dilapidated properties in Italy.

In almost any village there are houses in need of repair, covered in moss and vegetation, with broken windows and doors, apparently without owners. 

The main reason why there are so many of these forsaken homes is because the original owners have long migrated to other countries in search of a brighter future, or fled following natural calamities such as earthquakes, volcanic eruptions or landslides, leaving behind empty dwellings. 

These empty buildings can sit rotting in the sun for decades, if not centuries. No one seems interested in selling them off cheaply, likely because the heirs are nowhere to be found or can’t be bothered to deal with major renovation work or labyrinthine bureaucracy.

READ ALSO: Five pitfalls to watch out for when buying an old house in Italy

Local councils and mayors, who might dream of putting these buildings up for sale for a song or even a symbolic one euro to attract new buyers and breathe new life into dying communities, have their hands tied, in most cases forever. 

Authorities can seize these abandoned properties and place them on the market only if the buildings are a threat to ‘public safety and order’, like if there is the danger that parts of the building may crumble and kill passers-by or damage nearby properties or roads.

There is currently no law in Italy that allows town halls to seize these dilapidated buildings after a set number of years, and this is frustrating for mayors eager to give the old town centres a makeover, making them more appealing to tourists and buyers.

READ ALSO: Why Italians aren’t snatching up their country’s one-euro homes

I was recently talking to a friend of mine, who was deputy mayor in a town in Basilicata, and he complained how the only instances in which he ever stepped in to seize a property were when it had already crumbled to the ground. 

There is one exception: that’s when local authorities are the direct and sole owners of a building. There are specific laws approved by governments in the past granting towns struck by natural calamities to seize the buildings for public safety. 

Photo by Ehud Neuhaus on Unsplash

In Campania, where a terrible earthquake hit the Irsina area in 1980 sending locals running for their lives, many towns now have ghost districts which have passed into the hands of councils. Many villages there, like Zungoli and Bisaccia, have in fact since been able to sell dozens of old homes for one euro or a little more.

The process was quick here because the councils owned the properties. Sambuca in Sicily, struck by the 1968 Belice Valley quake, owns dozens of abandoned buildings in the old town centre, and it has already successfully sold two batches of cheap empty homes, triggering a property stampede

Another major problem in Italy is ‘abusivismo’ – illegal constructions that across time have turned into what Italians call eco-monsters, buildings that mar the environment and beauty of places. 

READ ALSO: ‘Italy’s one-euro homes cost a lot more than one euro – but can be worth it’

These can be abandoned concrete buildings such as old restaurants, beach clubs, sports centres, and shops built illegally, for instance along a lungomare seaside promenade back in the 1970s-1980s, that ruin the skyline and are ‘un pugno nell’occhio’ (an eyesore; literally ‘a punch in the eye’).

Visitors from abroad may well wonder why these ugly, abandoned buildings aren’t torn down and the land sold to developers. But they are normally only seized and demolished by local authorities if there are plans to redevelop the area with new public facilities, like playgrounds, public gardens or sports centres. Otherwise no-one cares. 

The trouble is, there is no political discussion of allowing mayors to seize derelict buildings and old illegal constructions after a certain number of years, even in the absence of urban regeneration projects and immediate safety risks. 

I think the government should take the issue more seriously, particularly if it wants to support the repopulation of Italy’s old villages by allowing interested buyers to give a new life to forgotten and neglected neighbourhoods.

SHOW COMMENTS