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SPANISH TRADITIONS

A quick guide to Alicante’s Hogueras de San Juan festival

Alicante will soon celebrate the arrival of summer with Las Hogueras de San Juan, the biggest festival of the year in the Costa Blanca city.

A quick guide to Alicante's Hogueras de San Juan festival
A man jumps over a bonfire during the annual San Juan (Saint John) celebrations on a beach in Alicante. Photo: JOSE JORDAN / STR / AFP

From June 20th-24th the whole city of Alicante explodes into a joyous rumpus of colour and light, where the main protagonist is fire.

Many cities in Spain have a fascination with fire around the festival of San Juan (Saint John) and Alicante is no different. Expect hordes of firecrackers, ear-splitting explosives, crackling bonfires, and of course hundreds of colourful fireworks lighting up the sky with fiery rain.

READ ALSO: Goats, horses and fire: the weird ways Spain celebrates San Juan

The event has a lot in common with Valencia’s more famous Fallas Festival, which takes place in March each year, yet it also has its origins in the summer solstice celebrations.

Alicante’s Hogueras festival has elements of Valencia’s Fallas traditions. Photo: JOSE JORDAN / AFP

 

The festival in Alicante began as a way for people to burn objects they no longer had any use for ahead of the summer season, making way for the new, and officially became a city celebration in 1928.

During the day, from June 21st- 22nd, parades take place through the city streets with locals dressed in traditional costumes, playing folk tunes and sometimes carrying elaborate religious statues. The main event is the ofrenda de Flores a la Virgen del Remedio, where flowers are taken as offerings to the Cathedral, where they get turned into huge floral images on the façade.

Each day at 2pm, there is a frenzy of noise, ground-shaking explosions and plumes of smoke white smoke during what’s known as the Mascletà in the Plaza de los Luceros, and by night there are carnival-like parades such as the Cabalgata del Ninot.

An ornate “hoguera” is set alight in Alicante. Photo: JOSE JORDAN / STR / AFP

A Carnival-like queen is selected from eager participants, called the bellea del foc or the Beauty of the Fire and elaborate costumes are worn. 

The highlight of these series of celebrations are the hogueras themselves, like Valencia’s fallas – huge cardboard and papier-mâché colouful sculptures, depicting fairytales, folklore and mystical legends, as well as political satire.

Bonfires on the beach during the San Juan celebrations in Alicante. Photo: JOSE JORDAN / STR / AFP

These sculptures are placed all over the city, until the culmination of the celebration on June 24th. At midnight explosives are attached to each hoguera and they are simultaneously set alight in a spectacular display known as the night of the “Cremà” or burning.

When each has burned to almost cinders, the city’s fight fighters come out with their hoses to douse everything in water, including the crowds who come in their bathing suits ready to take part in the communal “Banyà” and to cool down after a hot night of fire.

A man jumps over a bonfire during the annual San Juan celebrations at a beach in Alicante. (Photo by JOSE JORDAN / AFP)

This is accompanied by riotous beach parties and beach bonfires, when locals aim to jump over the flames in order to ward off negative spirits, bring good luck and then cleanse themselves and wash away their sins with a dip in the sea. 

But, the fiesta is far from over, as from June 25-29 right after Las Hogueras a jubilant firework competition takes place on El Postiguet beach

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TOURISM

Valencia to crackdown on tourist flats in historic old town

After news that Barcelona intends to phase out 10,000 tourist rental flats by 2029, the city of Valencia has started the process of banning new 'pisos turísticos' in the historic old town.

Valencia to crackdown on tourist flats in historic old town

Valencia city council last week unanimously approved plans to crackdown on the use of residential properties as tourist housing in the historic centre, known as the Ciutat Vella or ‘old town’.

This includes the popular neighbourhoods of Velluters, Pilar, Mercat, Carmen, La Seu and part of La Xerea. These central areas have the greatest concentration of tourist rental flats in the city, and council estimates suggest that 10 percent of all residences there are now holiday homes.

This follows news last month that the council would stop issuing new licences to Airbnb-style lets for a year, with the possibility to extend the measure, as rents surge past €1,000 in the city.

According to figures reported by Spanish daily El País, more than 3,500 tourist flats have opened in Valencia in the last year alone. However, in Valencia and cities across Spain, there are also many thousands of unlicensed tourist properties. It is unclear how exactly these flats can be properly regulated.

READ ALSO: Barcelona to get rid of all tourist rental flats ‘by 2028’

In Valencia problem is such that all political parties in the city, including the right-wing Partido Popular and Vox, as well as left-wing parties Compromís and PSPV, voted in favour of starting the process, which will take more than a year.

It comes amid a wave of crackdown on tourist rentals across Spain. In Barcelona last week, city mayor Jaume Collboni shocked many by announcing that the local government intends to ‘eliminate’ 10,000 tourist apartments in the Catalan capital by 2029. These apartments, he said, would be converted into much needed affordable housing for locals.

Surging rent prices are a problem in cities across Spain. In Valencia, the council authorities seem to have taken inspiration from Barcelona and pledged to try and create “a model similar to that of Barcelona… so that, within four years, we can begin to eliminate all the tourist flats in our city and convert them into residential housing”.

The council also wants to ban tourist flats in residential buildings entirely in the old town. “We want it to be a residential neighbourhood,” said city councillor for urban planning, Juan Giner, “and for this reason we have proposed that it is not compatible and no new tourist flats will be opened in the buildings where locals live.”

The proposals, however, would not be a total ban and do include an important exception: that new tourist accommodation will still be allowed in the old town when it is an exclusive use building (that is to say, without any residential housing) and only in the San Francesc neighbourhood and in a small part of La Xerea.

Equally, tourist properties that already have the proper licences or authorisation will be able to continue to operate, but the council’s plans mean that no new licences will be issued in the near future and no new tourist flats will be opened in residential buildings in the old town.

READ ALSO: ‘It’s become unliveable’: Spain’s Málaga plans protests against mass tourism

Anti-tourism protests have gained momentum across the country in recent months, with locals taking to the streets in Barcelona, Madrid, the Canary and Balearic Islands, and further walkouts planned in Málaga at the end of June.

Locals complain that the increasing numbers of Airbnb-style rental accommodation decreases the supply of affordable, residential housing, drives up rental prices, gentrifies local neighbourhoods and prices out locals.

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