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INSIDE SPAIN

Inside Spain: Saharan dust and smoking on terraces

In this week's Inside Spain, we examine how the 'calima' weather phenomenon is more common than ever across the country and how the prospect of banning smoking on terraces nationwide has Spanish bar owners scared stiff.

Inside Spain: Saharan dust and smoking on terraces
Madrid's skyline amid haze carrying particles, a phenomenon known as 'calima'. (Photo by OSCAR DEL POZO / AFP)

Have you noticed that calima or Saharan dust seems to be becoming more frequent in mainland Spain? It happened last week as well as in January, when the cloud of dust reached Scandinavia and even South America.   

Calima is the Spanish word used to describe when there’s sand or dust in suspension in the atmosphere. The English translation is haze.

Given the Canary Islands’ proximity to northwestern Africa, calima has always been far more common there than in the Iberian Peninsula, but even in the Atlantic archipelago the frequency of these periods of extremely poor air quality is on the up now.

In fact, there were only 12 days without calima the entire winter in the Canaries, according to Spanish national weather agency Aemet. 

The Canary Islands may be in the eye of the storm but people everywhere in Spain from Seville to Madrid and up to Bilbao are becoming increasingly familiar with finding Saharan dust on their cars and patios, and even reading headlines such as lluvia de sangre (blood rain) whenever the rain mixes with the dust. 

The EU’s Copernicus Atmosphere Monitoring Service (CAMS) recently reported on this spike in calima cases: “Winter 2024 is seeing a relatively high number of intense Saharan dust intrusions over Europe and Latin America. While dust transport is a normal atmospheric event in the region, the intensity and frequency of such episodes in recent years could be related to changes in atmospheric circulation patterns.” 

According to the European Geosciences Union (EGU), the frequency of suspended Saharan dust doubled from 2020 to 2022.

But apart from getting fewer days of clear blue skies in Spain, does this spike in dust in the air really matter?

During periods of extreme calima, parts of Spain experience some of the worst air quality in the world.

Although a high concentration of PM10 particles isn’t good in general, short periods of exposure aren’t harmful for most people. However, more intense and frequent exposure has been linked to worsening heart and lung conditions

More calima is a reminder that Spain’s climate is changing, as well as being an unavoidable consequence of living in a country that isn’t far from the Sahara, responsible for 70 percent of the dust in suspension worldwide.

And from one thing that’s not very good for your health to another that’s even worse: smoking. 

Spain is in the process of rolling out a new anti-out smoking legislation and perhaps the most controversial clause is that relating to lighting up in public places, outdoor bar and restaurant terraces in particular. 

Outdoor living is a quintessential part of life in Spain, and smoking un cigarrillo with a coffee or a beer is a basic hedonistic practice for 8 millions of Spaniards. 

We’d lose 40 percent of our customers,” hospitality bosses have warned, arguing that waiters would have to act as police officers and that authorities should consider other outdoor public spaces such as bus stops, beaches or universities. 

It’s no wonder it’s taking the Spanish government years to approve amendments to the anti tobacco law when interfering with the enjoyment of a quarter of the population is at stake.

Spain’s Health Minister Mónica García has stressed that whatever prohibition is implemented will “always be based on scientific evidence” and that she “isn’t scared” of how the public would react if smoking on terraces was banned.

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INSIDE SPAIN

Inside Spain: Madrid’s mango-scented tarmac and the €1M-a-year Airbnb host

In this week’s Inside Spain, we find out why Madrid residents are kicking up a stink over mango-smelling tarmac and how not everything is what it seems with normal-looking Airbnb hosts in Spain.

Inside Spain: Madrid’s mango-scented tarmac and the €1M-a-year Airbnb host

Residents in some streets of Spain’s capital woke up this week to the scent of tropical fruit, as the city hall rolled out new mango-scented tarmac as an bizarre means of improving foul-smelling odours outdoors, as well as apparently hiding the scent of freshly poured asphalt itself. 

“Those of us who have an especially large pituitary, as is my case, will appreciate it even more,” said Mayor José Luis Martínez-Almeida. 

“I’m getting dizzy from the strong smell of mango, I live on the first floor and I had to close all the windows for it not to smell indoors,” one less appreciative resident told local TV channel TeleMadrid. 

This mango aroma addition is a trial that’s part of Madrid’s “Operation Asphalt” (a plan to improve city roads), but it’s somewhat backfired on social media among disgruntled madrileños who claim it would’ve been much better to plant fruit trees if that’s a suitable way of improving street smells.

Unfortunately, Madrid authorities have been doing the opposite of that, having chopped down almost 9,000 trees over the past two years.

 Almeida has responded to critics by arguing that more than 5,000 trees have been planted during that time, although their distribution is far less even than it used to be, with the districts of Fuencarral- El Pardo and Hortaleza on the northern outskirts of the city housing 90 percent of these new trees. 

Nowhere exemplifies this better than Madrid’s main square Puerta del Sol as its revamp in 2022 included plenty of new cement but no trees.

It’s a concern for many Madrid residents dreading the dangerously high heat of the summer months, and who are aware that trees not only provide shade but help to keep neighbourhood temperatures down. 

Another story that’s been doing the rounds in Spain this week is that of Fran and Marta, an apparently normal couple with a young daughter who are Airbnb hosts, only that they have a portfolio of 336 properties in Madrid and rake in over €1 million a year. If anyone is a so-called ‘superhost’, it’s them. 

They don’t really own all those homes, they just manage them for the real owners through a company that uses endearing family photos and first names on their Airbnb profiles rather than a more distant and corporate company logo. 

Spanish newspaper El Confidencial lifted the lid on Fran, who is a real person, but sometimes goes by Diego, Rodrigo or Raúl, all with roughly 100 Airbnb listings each. Most of these properties don’t have a tourist property licence. 

Interviewed on Spanish daytime talk show TardeAR, whose host Ana Rosa praised him for the “enormously successful marketing operation” of pretending to be a normal small property holder to Airbnb users, Fran said he only had a mortgage for a small flat in the capital and that “you don’t earn that much”. 

“There are a lot of fake rich people when it comes to holiday lets,” he stated. 

What there are more of than we realise is fake landlords on Airbnb, at a time when the question of short-term holiday lets and their impact on local property and rental markets in Spain has never been greater. 

READ MORE: Who really owns all the Airbnb-style lets in Spain?

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