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OPINION

OPINION: Italy’s new digital nomads should watch out for the wifi speeds

There was excitement this week as a new digital nomad visa made the prospect of working remotely from Italy more realistic for many. But there may be a technical hitch, writes Silvia Marchetti.

A view of Castello di Dolceacqua, in Liguria’s Imperia province.
A view of Castello di Dolceacqua, in Liguria’s Imperia province. Photo by Dan Hagar on Unsplash

Earlier this week an immigration lawyer called to tell me that the Italian government had finally implemented the digital nomad visa, which had been approved through a law a couple of years ago but was pending entry into force.

He told me he was so happy because he had a lot of foreign clients who had lined up commissions to get legal help in the application process. He said they have been waiting for years to move to Italy to work remotely.

I immediately thought that this is great news for Italy; finally foreigners longing to work remotely in a warm climate, surrounded by great views, would see their dream come true.

READ ALSO: ‘Finally!’: Excitement and doubt as Italy confirms new digital nomad visa

Then I asked myself, but why should they choose Italy over the many other European countries that already have such visa: Portugal, Croatia, the Czech Republic, Greece, Iceland, Malta, Romania, Spain, just to name some?

In the Mediterranean, Italy is surely a top destination place for digital nomads and at first people are likely to choose Italy for this over Portugal, Croatia, and Greece, just for the sake that it’s a new ‘digital destination’. All of these countries offer lower costs of living.

But the trouble with the digital nomad visa is enclosed in the first word – ‘digital’. In the short term, unless investments are made in expanding high-speed coverage, these nomads will find out that the connection in many areas of Italy is still very poor.

I live near Rome, in the countryside, and I had to forsake all internet providers because there was simply no wifi infrastructure at my place. I was forced to subscribe to Starlink, which is a satellite provider used by yachts and campers that constantly move around in isolated places like the sea, mountains, and canyons.

According to recent data from the Corte dei Conti, Italy’s public spending watchdog, half the country lacks high-speed internet because private companies don’t invest in remote rural areas and the state is lagging behind in building coverage.

Such areas have been dubbed the “White Zone”. Italy should be investing billions of euros to fill in this digital divide between rural areas and cities, and between the north (more cabled) and the south.

A man works on his laptop inside a bar.

A man works on his laptop inside a bar. Photo by Jonathan Kemper on Unsplash

The 1 gigabit network, which is far from being super high-speed broadband, reaches just four percent of buildings and has very few subscribers.

The 5G network, at nationwide level, is still not complete, and despite commitments by the Italian government to invest the money from the European Union’s pandemic funds, we’re actually lagging behind in meeting targets to expand high-speed internet.

The appeal of relocating to a gorgeous, silent and quiet village in Sicily or Basilicata lures many digital nomads, but then once they arrive, harsh reality will kick in.

There are villages like Ollolai in Sardinia and Sambuca in Sicily that regularly host digital nomads after having invested in the upgrade of their internet infrastructure.

But the majority of small villages, and also towns and even some parts of cities, remain in very poor shape when it comes to surfing the web, sending important and urgent emails, or doing video chats and conferences.

And in cafés, bars and restaurants, even in desolate places, there’s always some kind of wifi connection, otherwise the owners themselves would have long shut.

So going for an espresso and working a couple of hours at a bar table might be an option, albeit not one sustainable in the long run for a teleworker who must always be online. 

Once I was waiting for a WeTransfer with photos from a town in deep Calabria, the internet connection there was so bad that the file landed in my inbox eight hours after it had been sent. It drove me crazy.

We have the beauty of the places, the sunshine, the food, art and beaches, but when it comes to technology and investments in infrastructure some places in Africa beat us.

I remember when I visited Zanzibar for the first time on a Christmas holiday, 10 years ago, I was shocked by the ultra-speed internet I found on the island, which was much more powerful than the one I had back in Rome.

So I think that at first the digital nomad visa will be successful because Italy remains so attractive, but then when the first nomads arrive they might find themselves in desperate situations in many areas, and won’t be able to work remotely as they had thought.

I fear that word could spread through social media that Italy might not be the ideal destination for them.

The only way to avoid this situation is to quickly invest the money the government has been given by Brussels in expanding internet connection across Italy and speeding up plans for ‘digital hubs’ in rural places.

Otherwise, like my granny used to say, Italy will just end up doing “una figuraccia” – ‘making a fool of itself’ on the global stage.

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OPINION

Doggy bags and sharing plates: Why Italy’s last food-related taboos are dying out

Italy is famous for its strong culinary traditions and unwritten rules around eating, but as Italians embrace doggy bags and informal dining, Silvia Marchetti argues that the last food-related taboos have been broken.

Doggy bags and sharing plates: Why Italy's last food-related taboos are dying out

Italians are deadly serious when it comes to eating or, as they say, “mettere le gambe sotto il tavolo”, meaning ‘putting your feet under the table’.

Three meals per day remain sacrosanct at home, but at restaurants the eating etiquette is changing, particularly in big cities where globalisation has an effect.

I recently discovered, much to my surprise, that Italians are embracing doggy bags. When I was a kid, many many years ago, to us Italians it always seemed like something only foreigners could do, especially Americans.

We would never have asked a waiter to give us a paper bag to bring away the food for the next day, it just would never have popped up in our minds: you eat what you are served and if you no longer wanted what you’d paid for, well too bad, you’ll leave it on the plate. It would’ve been embarrassing to walk away with a doggy bag.

So I was shocked when recently at a restaurant in Rome I saw Italians taking away bags of leftover lunch food, including cold pizza slices and meatballs. It almost knocked me off my chair.

READ ALSO: Are doggy bags still taboo in Italy’s restaurants?

When the waitress came to our table to bring the cheque, and saw that we hadn’t finished our fried  fish and spaghetti alle vongole, she asked if we wanted a doggy bag. My jaw dropped. It was a first for me.

Yet what really shocked me was that the restaurant was not in the city centre, but in the countryside where traditions tend to survive, or at the very least, take longer to die.

It struck me how it’s no longer foreigners asking for doggy bags, but even Italians have overcome the stigma of this former faux pas.

The sad truth is that it’s not just because of globalisation and the economic crisis following the pandemic. There’s been a fall in the cultural level of many Italians, so asking for a doggy bag is also a way to avoid having to cook for the evening or for the day after, rather than to save money.

Sadly, this trend is not an exception, nor a one-off, and in Italy it’s not driven by concerns over food waste (we’re really not that ‘green’) or the cost of living.

Italian restaurants are simply becoming more generically European and international, adapting to global habits and the requests of foreign clientele.

In Rome’s touristy spots, restaurants showcase photos of dishes outside the restaurant to lure customers, or display real plates of gluey carbonara. This is something I had never seen in my childhood.

I have noticed that other restaurant eating taboos and etiquette rules have fallen away, too.

A few (well-off) friends of mine bring their own bottles of wine along when they eat out so that they don’t have to pay for these at the restaurant. I find this very inappropriate, but it usually happens when the restaurant owner and customers are friends or know each other.

READ ALSO: Want to eat well in Italy? Here’s why you should ditch the cities

Trends in restaurant etiquette are changing. There are eateries that serve pizza at lunch, which used to be something you could only order for dinner unless you’re in Naples.

The standard three courses which we normally have are also being messed up: appetisers, first, second and side dishes are eaten in a disorderly way – something which would make my granny turn in her grave.

I have seen Italian families first order a T-bone steak and then pasta or a slice of pizza, while many couples share plates. The man orders one type of spaghetti dish, the woman orders another kind of spaghetti and half-way through the meal they switch dishes. This was something very unusual in the past. Before in restaurant there were boundaries in eating habits and in the eating culture, which are now blurring.

My parents taught me it is rude to poke your fork into someone else’s plate to curl up some spaghetti for yourself. My dad always looked sideways at anyone who did that: not only is it extremely improper, he thinks, but it is also very unhygienic.

There are no more rules left in Italian restaurants nowadays, and all taboos have been broken.

To adapt to foreign clients many restaurants tend to stay open the whole day, especially in very touristy areas, and the untouchable hours of lunch and dinner now overlap. Some taverns even serve breakfast.

READ ALSO: Why do Italians get so angry if you mess with classic recipes?

In the north, I’ve noticed that bread and extra-virgin olive oil are often missing from the table and you have to ask for them, which is something very atypical of Italian standards.

To find the traditional Italian eating code in restaurants where there are rules that will never die, one must go deep into unknown spots, and travel to remote villages no one has ever heard of. It’s always harder to find such authentic, untouched places.

I really hate to say this, but wherever there is mass tourism local traditions tend to die, particularly food-related ones.

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